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House Planning at Home 


A Practical Manual for Self-Instruction 

FOR MEMBERS OF BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS 
AND OTHERS 


BY- 

CHARLES E. ILLSLEY, A.M.C.E., Architect. 

«\ 

FELLOW OF THE AMERICAN INSTITUTE OF ARCHITECTS. 

ASSOCIATE EDITOR OF THE “ INLAND ARCHITECT.” 

AUTHOR OF “ DIRECT METHODS IN ARCHITECTURAL PERSPECTIVE,” ETC., ETC. 




SAINT LOUIS 

C. B. WOODWARD COMPANY 
1894 







r>> 


utered by Charles E. Illsley according to Act of Congress, in the year Eighteen Hundred and Ninety-four, 
in the Office of the librarian of Congress, at Washington, D. C. 


CONTENTS 


Chapter 

I. 

Introduction. 

Chapter 

II. 

Description oe House Plans. 

Chapter 

III. 

Planning Without Instruments. 

Chapter 

IV. 

Drawing Instruments. 

Chapter 

V. 

Planning With Instruments. 

Chapter 

VI. 

Coloring, Lettering, Etc. 

Chapter 

VII. 

Specifications. 

Chapter 

VIII. 

Estimating the Cost. 

Chapter 

IX. 

Taking Bids and Letting Contract 

Chapter 

X. 

Building Associations. 

Chapter 

XI. 

Conclusion. 





CHAPTER I. 


INTRODUCTION. 

^ FOLLOWING pages explain the elementary principles of architectural plan 
Jk drawing clearly enough, it is hoped, to be intelligible to ordinary readers 
with no previous knowledge of the subject, and without the aid of a teacher. 
^ Expert draftsmen must not be disappointed if they find little that is new to 
them, since the work is intended for amateurs only. The necessity of con¬ 
fining the book within narrow limits of size and cost, so that its price shall be no 
barrier to its universal use, compels the omission of much interesting matter, which 

may perhaps appear in a later volume. Its brevity and simplicity may render it 

acceptable as a text-book in schools, where a thoroughly practical course in plan 

drawing would be welcomed, could it be condensed within the limited time 
available for it. 

The advertisements will be of value to all concerned in drawing, building, decorating or furnishing, 
since none but responsible names appear, which can be addressed in confidence for information, prices, etc. 

This elementary book does not teach architecture “in one lesson;” nor will it encourage “every 
man to be his own architect.” A well-known proverb says, “ The man who is his own lawyer has a 
fool for a client.” This applies to architecture as well as to law, with this difference, perhaps, 
that a man who has been his own architect for any important building, is apt to regret his choice of 
both architect and client. 

As a rule, professional help pays: the most successful men always employ it. If an architect is 
sick, he consults a good physician, or ought to; if in legal trouble, he engages a first-class lawyer. The 

doctor and the lawyer, in turn, when they need a house, or an office, or a store, will save money, worry 

and loss, by employing the best architect within reach. Here is the royal road to the best and hand¬ 
somest house for the money. 

— 5 — 



A first-class architect knows so well how to manage and economize, that he often saves to the 
owner more than the entire amount of his commissions, not to mention the superior convenience and 
beauty of the building, which really constitute its highest value, and which the owner actually gets 
for nothing. 

But many a headache and bruise are cured without a doctor, and many a little tiff between neigh¬ 
bors is made up without a lawyer. So every year there is a vast amount of building in a small way 
which does not concern architects. Its cost is so trifling that an architect’s five or ten per cent, would 
not begin to pay for his time, and it is so simple that it almost goes of itself without professional 
assistance. Still a plan is generally needed, and there is no reason why the owner should not make it 
if he knows how. 

Moreover, architects’ fees are so very small (five to ten per cent, on the cost of the work), and 
their office expenses are so large, that it takes a great amount of building to support them ; hence, they 
are located mostly in the cities. When people who live in the smaller towns or in the country want to 
build, they must go or send to the city for their architect, or do without. Each alternative has its 
objections; but when the owner can properly draw a skeleton plan for himself, to show what he wants, 
he can often deal satisfactorily with a distant architect through the mails, and thus save the time and 
expense of many a personal journey back and forth by himself and his architect. 

Nor is this all : A man may live in the city and may have an architect for a neighbor at each side, 
yet, if unfamiliar with plan drawing, he will find much the same trouble in consulting his architect as a 
man who tries to converse with the deaf and dumb while ignorant of the sign language. Nothing is 
more common than for owners to tell their architect they “cannot make head or tail out of the 
drawings,” which they are nevertheless expecting to have transmuted into enduring stone, brick, 
and iron at their expense. So they enter blindfold, as it were, upon a building enterprise which may 
cost them thousands or hundreds of thousands of dollars, and have their eyes opened only when the 
house is erected, and its wonders of beauty or of ugliness stand forth in permanent form to the lasting 
delight or enduring mortification of the man who pays for it all. 

— 6 — 


Doubtless many an architectural monstrosity might have been spared to the suffering world, had 
the owners actually understood the drawings in advance of letting their contracts. 

An old maxim says, “The best way to understand a thing is to learn to make it.” The way to 
understand plans is to learn to make plans—not necessarily to become an accomplished draftsman, but to 
master the simple art of drawing to scale with the ordinary conventional signs used in architectural plans. 

Reserving the best for the last, we remark that after all, it is not the masculine fraternity which is 
most deeply interested in the art of house-planning, but the wives and daughters—those who are to live 
in the house, and work in it; who are to furnish it, adorn it, take care of it, entertain in it—these are 
the ones who, if they could only draw, would undoubtedly make a dozen house plans to one by the 
other sex. Probably we never shall know how many a “perfectly lovely ' 1 ' 1 combination of stair-hall, 
reception-room and dining-room, of front veranda and side porch, of sleeping-rooms, guest-room, etc., 
etc., has been lost to the world, locked up hopelessly in the busy brain of some ingenious, practical 
woman, simply because she cannot draw. 

This manual offers a helping hand to these voiceless planners. It is an architectural primer—to 
explain the first principles of making scale drawings and outline plans. These are set forth so minutely 
and simply that “ he may run that readeth.” Readers who have never been in an architect’s office, 
and are wholly unfamiliar with his modes of working, may here learn to lay out a plan and develop 
preliminary sketches for themselves readily and correctly. 

Thus it offers the key to one of the most fascinating employments possible to an active and 
ingenious mind, endowed with original ideas and refined tastes, viz. : the planning in detail of an ideal 
home, a modern paradise, where work and worry shall be reduced to a minimum, where beauty and 
refinement shall dwell in lasting harmony. 

Those who may wish to pursue a more thorough study of Architecture will find in the Archi¬ 
tectural Reference Hook by Charles E. Illsley, price $0.25, the list of books recommended for self- 
instruction by the Royal Institute of British Architects. 


- 7 - 


CHAPTER II. 



DESCRIPTION OF HOUSE PLANS AND PLANNING. 

HAT are called the “plans” of a house are really horizontal sections taken at 
various levels. Thus the cellar plan is a horizontal section taken below the first 
floor, and showing the location, length and thickness of all foundation walls and 
piers, the cellar steps, partitions, areas, etc., the location and width of cellar win¬ 
dows and doors, and often, by dotted lines, the location and sizes of the drains, sewers, 
etC ' ^ * s customar y 10 c °l° r the foundation walls blue if of stone, and red if of brick. 
If a hot-air furnace is intended the cellar plan should show its location and its pipes, 
etc. The first story plan is a horizontal section taken at such a point between floor 
and ceiling as to show all walls and partitions with their material, length and thickness; all doors 
and windows, the fire places and flues, the stairs, the hot-air pipes, the soil pipe from the water-closet, 
the kitchen sink, boiler, etc., and the outside steps, porches, verandas, etc. Stone walls are colored 
blue, brick walls red, and stud partitions or walls yellow. In planning parlor and dining-room it is well 
to draw to scale the principal articles of furniture, such as the piano, the side-board, book-case, etc., in 
order to be sure that there will be a suitable place for them. * 

The second story plan is a horizontal section between floor and ceiling of the second story showing 
corresponding features in this story. It will show all walls and partitions, all stairs, halls, closets, bath¬ 
room with its fixtures, all flues and fire places, all pipes rising above the second story ceiling and all 
doors and windows; also the roofs of the first story porches, verandas, etc. It is important in planning 
bed-rooms to locate and draw the beds and other principal furniture in order to make sure of a suitable 
place for them. If a hot-air furnace is to be used for heating, the plans must show all the pipes and 
If steam or hot water is intended the plans should show where the radiators will stand. 

The methods of drawing to scale are explained in Chapter IV. 


registers 


— s - 




An attic plan and a roof plan are often very serviceable. In general, the more numerous and com¬ 
plete the plans the better is the prospect of an entirely satisfactory house. A roof plan will show the 
ridges, valleys, dormers and gables, if any, the chimneys, gutters, etc. 

It is customary to mark on the plans with a cross or a dash, in red ink, the location of all gas or 
electric wire outlets for wall or ceiling lights. Wall lights are called “brackets,” ceiling lights are 
“drops” or “chandeliers.” 

The drawings which represent the front of the house, its sides, rear, etc., are called the “eleva¬ 
tions.” These will show the porches, verandas, etc., with their roofs, balconies, steps, railings, columns, 
etc., also all outside doors and windows and the chimneys, gables, dormers, roofs, etc. It is well 
to figure on the elevations of windows, the sizes of glass to be used. These sizes are generally in even 
figures, as 8 x io, 8x12, 10x12, 10x14, iox 16, etc., such sizes being made and kept in stock. Dealers 
in glass often circulate gratis little books which give the stock sizes of glass, and are very convenient. 
When window glass is eighteen inches or more in its least dimension it is usually advisable to use double 
strength glass (about one-eighth of an inch thick). This is marked D. S. on the elevations. Write 
the words“plate glass’, 1 “stained glass,”etc., where such glass is wanted. In windows to bath-rooms, 
water-closets, etc., it is well to use some form of obscured enameled or ground glass, for obvious reasons. 

Sometimes, in addition to the plans and elevations, architects make “sections,” as they are called. 
These are vertical sections of a building showing its appearance, for example, if the front wall were 
removed or the side or rear wall, disclosing the thickness of its floors, the heights of the various stories, 
the doors, stairs and other features as seen “in elevation,” as it is called. The construction of “sec¬ 
tions” requires more architectural skill than the plans and elevations. In plain work they may often 
be dispensed with. 

In important work architects usually make in addition to the plans, elevations and sections, what 
are called “scale details,” generally to a scale of one-eighth or one-sixteenth full size, also full-size 
details of all the principal features. Such elaborate drawings demand skill and experience ; they are 
not likely to be required in the plain and simple buildings contemplated in this manual. 


- 9 — 


\ r: s J 

\s 


FIs 2 


Sash pi vofecJ <3.t sides- 


F.o3 


In sketching a house plan some people write the letters D. and 
W. on the drawings wherever they want a door or a window. It is 
better to use the conventional signs customary with architects and always 
understood by builders. A window may be designated by an opening in 
the wall in which the outside lines of the wall are continued and one or 
two lines to denote the sashes are drawn between them, as in Figures i, 
2 and 3. If the sash is to be hinged at one side it may be dotted as in 
Fig. 1 ; if pivoted at top and bottom so as to revolve, it may be shown 
as dotted in Fig. 2. Fig. 3 is for sash pivoted at both sides, the top to 
swing in and the bottom to swing out. 


Some draftsmen show windows with more elaboration of detail, drawing the box frame, the pro¬ 
jecting sill outside, the recess inside, etc., in the belief that such drawings are “more accurate” than 
others. This is not recommended, however, because the supposed greater accuracy consumes time and 
complicates the drawings to no useful purpose. If the elevations and specifications are properly drawn, 
the method of showing windows above described is all sufficient for the purposes of the builder, who 
will pay no attention whatever to any greater elaboration except to be confused by it. The main object 
of the plan in respect to the windows is to show their location and 
width, and whether the sash slide or swing. 

Where window sashes slide and are balanced by weights, 
as is the custom in good work, “box frames” must be specified. 

Their construction is shown by large scale in Fig. 4. As above 
remarked, it is not necessary to give this amount of detail in the 
plans of a house. It suffices to draw the windows, as has been 
advised, and then to state in the specifications that they will have 
“box frames.” The box is the vertical space in which the 
weights rise and fall. The sashes are fitted, then glazed, then 



— 10 — 


Fig. 4. 

































weighed, and narrow cylindrical weights of cast iron are made, each equal to half the weight of one 
sash. These are hung to the sash by hemp cord called “sash cord,” a rope made expressly for this 
purpose. It runs over cast iron grooved wheels or “ pullies” screwed into the “pulley stiles” of the 
window frame. The Italian sash cord has long been considered the best, although various other cords 

are in the market, as also are metal chains and ribbons for 
extra heavy sash. With the latter a special article of lead 
weights is sometimes used. Plate-glass sashes of large size 
usually require lead weights. There is quite a variety of “sash 
pullies ” as well. 

Strictly speaking no “ boxes ” are made to “box frames ” 
in wooden houses, the nearest wall stud being set far enough 
away to leave the necessary space or “ box ” for the weights. 
In brick or stone houses only is the “ box ” necessary as a stop 
to the masonry, which is built against it. 

What are called “plank frames” have no space for 
weights, consequently no pullies nor cord. The sashes may 
slide, in which case some sort of fastening must be provided to 
hold them up, or down, or they may be hinged or pivoted so 
as to swing out or in. There are also for plank frames various 
“sash balances” containing an adjustable coiled spring to 
balance the sash just as the weights do. 

Good sashes are usually to thick. The “parting 
strip” (Fig. 4) separates the sashes by one-half inch. This 
would leave a space one-half inch wide all across the window 
between the top rail of the lower sash and the bottom rail of 
the upper sash through which the cold could enter. To 



Fig- 5- 


IX — 

























close this space the “meeting rails ” of the sashes are made thicker than the other parts and are beveled 
so as to fit accurately and close this space. Such are called “check rail” or “lip” sashes. 

In very cheap windows the parting strip is omitted, the upper sash is fastened in place and the 
lower one slides up against it. These are called “plain rail ” sash, and are i % inch thick. 

The top and bottom members of a sash are its “rails;” the sides are “stiles,” and the dividing- 
strips are generally called “muutius.” 


There is considerable variety in the shapes of windows. Fig. 
5 shows a “circular head” window in brick work, its head being- 
in fact a semi-circle. The arch bricks may stand “on end” as in 
the right half, or on their long sides. The former is a “bonded 
arch,” the latter a “double rowlock.” A single course would make 
a “single rowlock;” three courses would be called a “triple 
rowlock.” The rowlock arch is considered stronger than the 
bonded arch, but is not thought to look as well. Bonded arches 
may be in several courses also, and they are sometimes made of 
“ Roman bricks” which are twelve inches long.* Sometimes a 
border is added above the arch, either of plain or of moulded 
bricks. This is called a “ label moulding.” 

Fig. 6 shows a “segment head” window, with a bonded arch 
at the right and a double rowlock at the left. The radius of the 
arch may be equal to the width of the opening. If the frame and top sash are curved, as in the left 
half of this figure, it is termed “segment sash.” Often the top sash and frame are square, as in the right 
half of this figure, the space between frame and arch being closed by a curved board. This is called 
a “ segment board” frame, and is cheaper than the other. 

It is quite the fashion in many quarters to finish brick window heads as in Fig. 7 either with 



* An ordinary brick is 2x4x8, ». e., two inches thick, four inches wide and eight inches long. These sizes are not exact, however, there being 
considerable vaiiation due to the processes of manufacture. A hard burned brick is smaller than one which has been less affected by fire. 


— 12 — 















F I C\. I" A r c b 


beveled bricks on end or with common bricks laid flat. 
The former style is thought to have originated in Holland, 
whence it is called a “Dutch Arch,” though its only 
resemblance to an arch is in the beveled shape of its 
members and in the fact that it is self-supporting. A 
full size drawing must be made of such a window head 
and the bricks must be ground accurately to the correct 
shape and laid with special care. The segment and 
Dutch arches produce a lateral thrust which requires 
strong walls or abutments at each end. 

The flat construction in the right half of Fig. 7 pro¬ 
duces no lateral thrust, but it is not self-supporting. An 
iron or steel bar or lintel must be provided to span the 
entire opening and support the bricks above it. 

The principles above stated apply equally to stone 
work, although the tenacity of good building stone makes 
it possible to cover a window opening with a single stone 
cap as in Fig. 8. This makes an excellent construction 
without lateral thrust. 

Windows may be set singly or grouped in various ways. The grouping of windows, called “fenes¬ 
tration,” is an important source of architectural effect. When placed very closely the divisions between 
windows are called “mullions,” and the combination is called a “mullion window.” This may include 
two windows with one mullion as in Fig. 7, or there may be many windows and mullions in the group. 
The mullions may be of wood as in Fig. 7, or they may be of brick or stone. In Gothic architecture 
elegant effects are produced by delicate stone columns with carved or moulded caps and bases used as 
mullions. 



— 13 — 















































Fig. 8. 


Sometimes, as in Fig. 8, an extra sash is placed at 
the top of a window, called a “transom sash,” and 
either permanently fixed in place or hinged or pivoted 
so as to swing open. The division between the transom 
and the main window is the “transom bar.” It may 
be of stone, as in Fig. 8, or of wood or other material. 
The practical use of transoms apart from architectural 
effect is for ventilation without the draughts caused by 
opening the window below. They are often difficult 
to close securely against the weather. 

The same forms as above described are used for 
door heads, except that mullioned doorways are rare. 
In stone houses and in brick buildings of the best class 
the door and window frames are generally set back quite 
deep within the wall. This depth is called the “reveal.” 
A deep reveal adds much to the external effect of a door 
or window. In ordinary brick houses the reveal is very 
shallow, not over two or three inches. 

In panel doors the vertical strips are called ‘ ‘stiles,” 
as in sashes, and the cross pieces are “rails”—the 


Fig. 9 - 


bottom rail, the lock rail and the top rail. The most 
common form of door has four panels, as in Fig. 9. The inner edges of the rails and stiles may be 
square edged, or moulded “on the solid,” as it is called (see Fig. 10), or strips of moulding may be 
cut and mitred and tacked in all round the panels. See Fig. 11. These mouldings may be so thick 
as to project above the frame and lap over slightly 011 it. Such are called “ lap-moulded doors. ” If 
the mouldings do not project, the door is “flush-moulded.” The solid moulded doors, often called 


-14 - 












































































Fig. io. Fig. ii. 

were popular 


O. G. doors, are cheaper than flush or lap-moulded doors. They are 
i % to 1^-8 thick and are kept in stock in sizes ranging from 2x6x1 1 gi 
to 3x7x114. 1^8 O. G. doors are made in sizes from 2x6 to 3x9, 

and 1 doors from 2-6 x 6-6 to 3x9. For a full list of sizes applica¬ 
tion should be made to a planing mill or to a lumber dealer. The 
flush and lap-moulded doors are i^i to 1^ thick. 

In the so-called “Oueen Anne” or “ Eastlake ” styles, which 



Fig. 12. 


12 . 


twenty years ago, the borders of panels were “stop chamfered,’’ as shown in Fig. 
This consisted in beveling the sides of the rails and stiles for most of the length and breadth of the 
panel. Sometimes the chamfers were all round the panel ; oftener they were at the sides only, the 
top and bottom being fitted with bits of straight moulding neatly cut into place, as in Fig. 12. This 
was thought a better security against the effects of shrinkage than was afforded by the mitred joint in 
flush or lap-moulded work. This fashion has now almost entirely disappeared. The central part of 
the panel is often slightly raised above its edges. This is a “raised” panel. The material of the 
door ma\’ be white or yellow pine, cypress, etc. The stiles and rails may be of cypress and the panels 
of yellow pine, if desired. 



What are called hard wood 
is heavy, expensive and likely to 
door is of straight-grained white pine, 
wood, glued and screwed on. 

“Batten doors” are cheap doors 
strips of narrow flooring nailed or screw- 
Tliey should be of white pine where 
O11 floor plans inside doors are 
ing of the proper width in the partition. 




P'K- 13 - 


Fig. 14. 


are seldom of solid hard wood, which 
out of shape. In good work the real 
hieh is “veneered” with thin hard 


for outside cellar areas, etc., made of 
ed to cross pieces beneath, called battens, 
exposed to the weather, 
shown, as in Fig. 13, by a simple open- 
For an outside door continue the outside 


line across the opening to designate the edge of the door sill, as in Fig. 14. It is well to draw a slant 


— 15 — 



































line to represent the door and indicate to which side it is to be hinged, as shown. On this line write 
the size and quality of the door. 



A 

B 

——- 

1 













Fig. 15. 


Sliding doors slide back between two partitions. They are drawn as in Fig. 15. The distance 
AB should be figured. Sliding door partitions are drawn twelve inches thick, ordinary partitions being- 
six inches thick. 




C o i'tain. 


Fig. 16. 

Sometimes a doorway is wanted with a curtain but no door, or with an arch over it, or with both 
arch and curtain. These are shown as in Fig. 16. 

Fig. 17 shows the plan of a stair of which Fig. 18 is a side elevation and Fig. 19 a scale detail. 
In Fig. 17 A is the hand-rail, B is the newel post at the bottom, C is the “ cylinder” (formerly called 
the “newel”) and D is the quarter-turn where the hand-rail and the opening in the floor terminate 
with a “ return” to the side wall. In the plans draw the hand-rail about three inches wide, and the 
newel five or six inches square. Rails, newels, balusters, etc., of great variety may be found in stock 
at planing mills or stair factories, or they may be made to order. In that case large scale details and 
full size drawings will be required. 

In drawing the plan of a stair like that in Fig. 17 care must be taken to get ample “ head-room ” 
before making the return to the wall shown at D. I11 this case (not counting the winding steps indicated 


— 16 — 






























Nosing 

U - 

| Scotia. 


Fillet 



by dotted lines) the return conies at the outer edge 
of the eleventh tread. With a “riser” of seven and 
one-half inches each, the eleventh tread will be eighty- 
two and one-half inches below the upper floor. 
Deducting twelve inches for the floor thickness, this 
step is seventy and one-half inches below the ceiling, 
i. e. one and one-half inch less than six feet. This 
is a minimum head room. It would be better to 
carry the return two treads farther, so as to get a 
head room of fully seven feet. It will facilitate 
the stair builder’s work to write on the plans the 
number of risers up or down in each stair. This 
stair is in two sections with a “platform” half way 
up. When winding steps are wanted they are drawn 
as shown by the dotted lines. 


7 


J 


) 


Fig. 19. 


Figures 18 and 19 are chiefly to 
define the terms used by stair build¬ 
ers. I11 ordinary work it is not neces¬ 
sary to make such drawings, the plan 
of the stairs, with a proper explana¬ 
tion in the specification being suffi¬ 
cient. The terms “ treads ” and 
“risers” in stairs explain them¬ 
selves. The edge of the tread is 
rounded to form a “nosing.” Under 
it in good work is a hollow moulding 
called a “scotia.” The nosing and 



—17 — 






















































































I-1 


scotia are usually “ returned,” as it is called, across the end of the step, and below them a thin strip, 
called a “fillet,” is added to cover and hide the joint between tread and riser and the “face string” 
which supports them. 

Rear stairs often run up between two partitions and have no newel, rail or balusters, unless it be 
to guard the opening in the upper floor. Such are called “enclosed stairs.” In distinction from 
enclosed stairs, the kind shown in Fig. 17 is called an “open flight with continued rail.” It is custom¬ 
ary to plaster the slant ceiling beneath the stairs. The wall ends of the steps are usually sunk into 
grooves cut in the “wall string.” These are said to be “ housed into the wall string.” In very cheap 
work this “ housing ” is omitted. 

In relation to the ease of ascent, a very good proportion for a stair is seven inches of riser to ten 
inches of tread. Many stairs have risers of seven and one-half inches 
with nine inch treads, and are found quite satisfactory. Rear stairs 
often have eight inch risers and eight inch treads. It is a mistake to 
make rear stairs too steep. Their purpose is largely to save the 
front stair and hall with their carpets, and if they are too steep the 

servants will improve every opportunity to use the front stair instead. Fig. 20. 

Since the tread with its nosing projects beyond the riser below, a stair with ten inch treads “on the 
run,” as it is called in planning stairs, will actually have a tread sightly wider than eleven inches. 

Fig. 20 shows a fire-place as usually drawn. The length is five feet, the breadth eighteen inches, 
and the central opening is two feet wide by nine inches deep. This leaves side piers, AB, CD, each 
eighteen inches wide, in each of which is space for a 9x9 flue to rise from below, if wanted. These 
dimensions answer for plans, although in fact when it is plastered the actual length of “ breast,” as it 
is called, may be one or two inches more than five feet. 

A single flue is drawn eighteen inches square, a stack of two flues is 2 l / 2 feet long by 1 ^ feet wide, 
three flues are 3^ feet long, four flues 4 }/ 2 feet long, etc., all by a width of eighteen inches. These 
figures are not always quite exact, since bricks and mortar joints vary, but they are all that is required 
in drawing plans. It is well to show in the plans in what rooms the flues are to have openings for 

—18 — 


A 




C 


D 











stove-pipes, etc. Sometimes a flue starts out from the wall near the ceiling, instead of running down 
to the floor. This is said to be “corbelled out,” and is drawn with dotted lines like the side-flue shown 
in Fig. 24. There is danger from fire if corbelled flues are started too near the ceiling. Allow not less 
than twelve to eighteen inches between the stove-pipe hole and the ceiling, if of plaster. A wooden 
ceiling may need protection by a tin or other metal shield suspended below the ceiling and above the pipe. 

Fig. 21 shows a common arrangement for a bath-room, with wood encased planished copper tub ; 
a lavatory adjacent, with marble slab, and a modern water-closet in the corner. The round end of the 

tub is its head. The supply and discharge, or “waste” 
pipes, are usually at the foot of a bath-tub, and as these 
generally connect with the pipes to the lavatory and 
water-closet, it is advantageous to place the foot of the tub 
as near as possible to the other fixtures. Sometimes the 
water-closet stands between the tub and the basin, which 
is also a good arrangement. It is desirable to locate the water-closet, 
lavatory and the foot of the tub against an inside wall, if possible, 
as in Fig. 21, since the supply and waste pipes, which rise upon this 
wall from the lower story and basement, 
are more secure against frost than upon I 
an outside wall. Sometimes a hot-air 




Fig. 22. 


7 


Fig. 21. 

adjacent to the plumbing pipes, 


pipe or a smoke-flue can be brought up 
as an additional protection. 




T ci b. 




The old-fashioned copper-lined wooden bath-tubs are being supplanted ! ]g ' 23 ' 

by cast iron, or by porcelain, or other earthenware tubs which stand entirely free from the wall 
and from the floor, and have no casing whatever to harbor vermin or to conceal dirt and disease 
germs. Such a tub is indicated in Fig. 23. These tubs are in great variety of shape, size and orna¬ 
mentation, as are also water-closets, lavatories, sinks, and other fixtures. There is no necessity, how¬ 


ever, for attempting to make an accurate picture of the exact fixtures wanted. 

— ig- 


All that is required in 






































the plans is to use the diagrams shown, which are understood by all plumbers, and to give in the 
specification the more minute description necessary. But the general dimensions must be drawn with 
care in order to insure a sufficient allowance of room for the fixtures wanted. 

Copper bath-tubs, New York pattern, are 24 inches wide and 19 inches deep, outside measure. 
French tubs are 26 inches wide and 22 inches deep. The New York tubs are in three lengths, 
viz: 5 feet, 5^ feet and 6 feet; the French tubs are feet, 5 feet, 5 X A feet and 6 feet long. 
'They are made of 10, 12,14, 16, 18 and 20-ounce copper. The retail price of New York tubs runs from 
$15.00 for io-ounce copper to $24.00 for the 20-ounce. French tubs are made of the same copper ; their 
prices vary from $16.00 to $25.00 for the 4K-foot tubs and $22.00 to $31.00 for 6-foot tubs, of different 
weights of copper, with intermediate prices for the other sizes. The 12 and 14-ounce copper is heavy 
enough for ordinary uses. 

Iron tubs are plain, painted, or “porcelain lined.” They are of about the same sizes as above, and 
range in price from $18.00 to $112.00. Porcelain tubs of corresponding sizes cost from $120.00 to 
$270.00. These prices are increased in some cases by special fittings. 

Plumbing supply houses now furnish lavatories complete, including porcelain bowls of great variety, 
plain and decorated, marble slabs and “backs,” metal standards or brackets to support the bowl and 
slabs, and many kinds of faucets, etc. Such complete lavatories retail from $22.50 upward. In good 
work the marble slab should be “ counter-sunk,” i. e ., have a sloping surface sunk slightly below the 
rim, so as to drain water on the surface into the bowl, instead of its running off upon the floor, and the 
front edge of the slab should be moulded. “ Square slabs” are made in ten sizes, from 18 x 24 inches 
to 20 x 33 inches. Corner slabs, as in Fig. 22, are in two sizes, 20 x 20 and 22x22. There are also cast 
iron lavatories, either painted, galvanized or enameled, made “half-circle” and “corner,” with legs 
and without, and retailing from $4.50 to $11.50. These prices do not include faucets, plugs, chains' nor 
other fittings. There are also special forms and combinations, for schools, asylums, etc. 

Lavatory basins are round, oblong and with straight backs, and the discharge opening at the back 
instead of the center. They are also made with “common overflow ” and “ patent overflow.” The 
latter is a passage within the substance of the bowl for the overflow. It looks neater than the common 


— 20 


overflow, but is objectionable because its concealed passages are inaccessible for cleaning. There are 
also numerous patented overflows and wastes, some of which are admirable. Rubber plugs are prefer¬ 
able to those of metal. It is customary to protect the wall behind a lavatory with slabs of marble, to 
correspond with the lavatory slab. These wall-slabs are technically called “backs.” They are usually 
made eight to ten inches high. It is also an excellent plan to place a countersunk marble slab under 
the water-closet. These should be i to i ]/ 2 inches thick and about two feet square. They cost $2.00 
to $2.50 per square foot. 

Until recently water-closets were very plain, and were enclosed in wood-work to hide their deformity. 
For sanitary reasons, such closets have been entirely abandoned in good work, the modern water-closet 
standing free and unconcealed ; hence a great variety of shape and of ornament is to be found. A width 
must be allowed not less than two feet for any water-closet, and an equal projection from the wall out 
to the front of the seat and lid. There are now in use three general styles of water-closet, called respec¬ 
tively the hopper closet, the wash-out closet and syphon closet. The latter are again divided into the 
plain syphon and the syphon jet closets. 

The hopper closet is the simplest, the cheapest, and in a sanitary respect one of the best, as it has 
no moving parts whatever to clog and get out of order, and every portion is directly visible and acces¬ 
sible for cleaning. But it is not thought to be as presentable in appearance as the others, and is used 
only in cheap work or for inferior positions in good buildings. It is made of cast iron and of porcelain, 
with or without self-rising seats, and costs, including supply-tank and chain, from $9.00 to $22.00 each. 

Next comes the wash-out closet. This consists essentially of a shallow basin containing a very 
little water and a concealed trap, also a flush-tank. O11 opening the valve this tank suddenly discharges 
a large volume of water, with force enough to wash out all the contents of the closet into the concealed 
trap and partly through it. Wash-out closets are effective, but are apt to be noisy, and the trap is 
difficult of access for cleaning. Some wash-out closets are handsome pieces of furniture. Their price 
varies from $22.00 to $62.00, beside various extras for special fittings and accessories. 

The syphon closets, like the other two classes above named, are free from moving parts, but they 
are more complicated than the hoppers or the wash-outs. They have a trap, with narrow passages so 


arranged that the first discharge from the tank closes a syphon from the bowl, whose contents are there¬ 
upon drawn downward and off with great vigor through the energy of the syphon action. In the syphon 
jet closet, this syphonage is induced by a fine jet of water at the base of the closet. Syphon closets are 
considered the best in use. They cost from $41.50 up to $82.00, including seat and tank. 

Kitchen plumbing is shown in Fig. 24, with sink and grooved drip-board in the corner, and a 
galvanized iron range boiler between the sink and the kitchen flue. As already remarked, the kitchen 

flue is dotted, to show that it does not begin at the floor, but is corbelled out 
from the wall near the ceiling, adjoining the laundry flue, marked L, which 
rises from below. The arrangement here shown of flue, boiler and sink, is 
one of the best possible for the satisfactory operation of all the fixtures. 

Kitchen sinks are of wrought steel, of cast iron (plain, galvanized and 
enameled), of soapstone, slate, and of earthenware, either coarse or fine. The 
iron sinks are most used. Twenty-two sizes of cast iron sinks are made, all 
six inches deep and ranging from 12 x 18 to 24 x 50. The 12 x 18 sink costs 
$1.25 for the plain iron, $2.60 for the galvanized and $4.75 for the enameled. 
A very good size is 18 x 30, costing $2.50, $5.10 and $8.50 for the three qual¬ 
ities respectively. There are other shapes, such as half-circle sinks, quarter- 
circle sinks, etc. Porcelain sinks are in four sizes, 20 x 30, 23 x 36, 24 x 42 
and 24x48. They cost from $22.00 to $42.00 each. Soapstone sinks and 
slate sinks, of nearly the same sizes, cost $5.50 to $9.50 for slate and $8.50 to 
Small pantry sinks are made of wrought steel, of copper and of porcelain. Steel 
sinks, 14x20 and 16x24, cost $3.50 to $4.75 each. Oval shapes, 14x20, may be had painted, 
galvanized, gray enameled and white enameled, at $2.00, $3.50, $5.50 and $6.50 respectively. Copper 
pantry sinks in six sizes, square and oval, from 12x20 to 16x30, cost from $5.00 to $12.00 each. 
Porcelain sinks in five sizes, from 14 x 20 to 20 x 30, cost $13.00 to $23.00. Cast iron sinks are also 
made with iron legs and backs, costing from $23.00 to $35.50 ; also, slate and soapstone sinks, with 
slate drip, metal legs, etc., from $13.00 up to $34.50. 



Fig. 24. 

$14.50 for soapstone. 


22 — 

















go 


1 


1 1 



<5 -5ewer, 




The range “ boiler,’ 1 as it is commonly called, is in fact only a reservoir for water heated in the 
water-back or coil in the fire-box of the range. These boilers are made of galvanized wrought iron and 
of copper, in considerable variety of patterns. Fourteen sizes of iron boilers are made, from 18, 24, 30, 
35, 40, 52 gallons, up to 196 gallons capacity. The sizes enumerated are most used for dwellings. They 
cost from $14.50 to $31.00 each, besides the cast iron stands, at $1.25 to $3.80. A forty-gallon copper 
boiler costs from $34.00 to $40.00 ; other sizes in proportion. 

Fig. 25 shows a set of three laundry tubs. These are made of 
enameled iron, of porcelain, of glazed brown earthenware, of stone, 

and of slate or soapstone. Iron tubs, 

24x24, cost $16.00 each ; a set of two 
stone tubs, same size, costs $15.50; 
glazed brown earthen tubs cost $14.00 
each ; a set of two slate tubs of same 
size costs $20.00, and the same in 
soapstone costs $26.00. Fig. 25 also 
F ig. 25 . shows a grating and trap in the 

laundry floor, and the method of drawing the sewers. 

The prices for all plumbing are “ list prices.” Labor is not included, and no allowance is made 
for discounts on the one hand nor for extra fittings, of which there is a great variety, on the other. 

Gas or electric lights are indicated as at A and B in Fig. 24, where A shows a “ drop ” from the 
ceiling for two lights, and B shows a “ one-light bracket ” against the side wall. The marks for lights 
are often made on plans in red ink. 

A hot-air furnace and connections is shown in Fig. 26. Draw every pipe and show where it 
will enter the wall for rooms above the first floor, and where it will rise to floor registers, if any, in 
first story, giving in each case the diameter of the pipes and their destination, also showing the 
smoke-pipe and its flue. If the furnace is to be jacketed in galvanized iron, its shape will be as 
drawn. If it is to be encased in brick, its enclosure will be square, but it will not be necessary 



— 23 — 



































to change the drawing. It will suffice to state in the specification that the furnace shall be encased 
in brick work. 

Fig. 27 represents a front porch, or veranda, attached to the front wall of a frame dwelling. 
There is a step, one tread and two risers, up to the veranda floor, and another step at the front door. 

If these steps are each seven inches, and if the veranda floor slants, as it 
should, about one inch, the first floor will be twenty-two inches above 
the ground. With 2 x 10 floor joists and “seven-eighths” flooring, the 
under side of the joists will then be eleven and one-eighth inches above 
ground. A railing is shown between the posts, and two half-posts are 
shown against the building. The parlor has a mullion window in two 
parts. A good size for veranda posts is five to six inches square. They 
may be square and boxed, i. e., hollow inside, or square and solid, 
Fig. 27. or “turned” into round shapes, or partly square, partly turned. 

Large square posts, if solid, are apt to check and split in seasoning, even though a hole be bored longi¬ 
tudinally through them to prevent this. Large posts or columns are best made like a barrel, of narrow 
staves two inches thick screwed and glued together. 

In ordinary brick dwellings, the walls are usually nine inches or thirteen inches thick. These are 
approximately their thickness when plastered. In some sections such are called eight and twelve-inch 
walls respectively (the plastering not being included). A nine (or eight) inch wall is also said to be “ one 
brick thick,” and a thirteen (or twelve) inch wall to be “one and one-half bricks thick.” I11 estimating 
the number of bricks required, it is customary to allow fourteen bricks to the square foot of nine-inch 
wall and twenty-one bricks to the square foot of thirteen-inch wall. A substantial wall can not be 
erected of less thickness than one brick, or nine (eight) inches. Walls faced with “stock bricks” are 
usually not less than thirteen inches thick. Brick-work is paid for at an agreed price ‘ ‘per thousand in 
the wall.” This includes mortar, labor, water, hauling and everything else necessary. 

Walls of rubble stone masonry are generally used as foundations to brick walls, with a thickness of 
eighteen inches under a nine-inch brick wall, and twenty-one inches under a thirteen-inch brick wall. 



— 24 — 






















These matters, and many others, are minutely detailed in the Building Ordinance of the City of St. 
Louis, to be had gratis. All houses within the city limits must conform to this ordinance. Rubble 
masonry in St. Louis is charged at a fixed price per perch of twenty-two cubic feet, including mortar, 
labor, and everything else necessary. 

Inside stud partitions and the outside walls of frame houses are usually six inches thick, consisting 
of 2x4 “studs,” plastered both sides, or plastered inside and “sided” without. If sheathed and sided, 
they will be about seven inches thick. Floor joists are ordinarily 2x10; ceiling joists, 2x4 or 2x6, 
and rafters 2x4, in houses of moderate cost. Within the “fire limits” in cities, the erection of frame 
buildings is forbidden, except on the petition of adjacent property owners and other conditions, to be 
learned on application to the city authorities. A building permit must be obtained, and there are often 
charges to be paid for using city water for building purposes, etc. ; also regulations about the protec¬ 
tion of the general public by lights, fences, temporary sidewalks, etc., and about depositing building 
material in the streets. 

The weight of rubble masonry is taken at 150 pounds per cubic foot, the weight of brick-work at 
112 to 125 pounds per cubic foot. Ordinary white pine lumber weighs about two pounds per foot, 
board measure, i. e., one foot square and one inch thick. Yellow pine weighs three pounds per foot. 


— 25 — 


CHAPTER III. 


PLANNING WITHOUT INSTRUMENTS. 

HILE the purchase of a good set of drawing instruments is advised whenever it can 
he afforded, and the cost is not great, it is well for every one to know how, on 
occasion, to construct a fairly accurate house plan with no other instruments than 
a pencil and rubber. A ruler also will be of service, though not strictly necessary. 
Plate IV. shows how to do this with the aid of what is called “cross section 
paper,” a finely calendered white paper, accurately ruled with heavy lines one inch 
apart, and at right angles to each other, so as to cover the paper with a series of 
squares measuring exactly one inch to a side. These squares are subdivided by 
lighter lines one-eighth of an inch apart, forming within each large square sixty- 
four smaller ones. Cross section paper is made expressly for the use of civil and railway engineers, and 
may be had of all dealers in engineering supplies. 

It will be seen that to a quarter scale each of the large squares represents a block four feet 
square, while each of the smallest divisions represents a square of six inches on each side. Thus, a 
room twelve feet wide and sixteen feet long will cover a width of three of the large squares and a 
length of four of them. Therefore, with a soft pencil trace out on the cross section paper, along the 
heavy lines, a rectangle three large squares in width and four in length. 

If this be a frame building, the outside wall may be traced along the first faint line beyond the 
diagram already drawn, for, as the faint lines are one-eighth inch apart, they represent a space, to a 
“quarter scale,” just six inches wide. 



— 26 — 






















































































































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CHAPTER IV. 


DRAWING INSTRUMENTS. 



RAWING instruments include the sets of dividers, compasses, ruling pens, etc., usually 
of Swiss, French or German manufacture, and put up in boxes, as shown on page 
70, together with the drawing board, T square, triangles, scales, etc., which are 
sold separately. 

The drawing board should be of seasoned straight-grained, clear ^-incli white 
pine, dressed both sides, perfectly straight, true and square, and with a 2-inch cleat 
at each end secured by dove-tailed grooves, but not glued nor nailed unless at the centre. The 
cleats should be a quarter inch shorter than the width of the board, to allow for shrinkage. A good 
size for a small board is 18x23 or 20x25 or 22x31 inches. Avoid hardwood for a drawing board; it 
costs more than pine, is heavier to handle, more apt to warp, and it is harder to press the thumb tacks 
into it. 

Thumb tacks are for fastening the drawing paper on the board. For ordinary use take those 
with short, fine points well secured to the flat head. I11 very cheap tacks the point is insecure and 
apt to be pushed through the head and into the finger. A good and cheap German tack, called “ Reise- 
brett-nagel,” is stamped out of a single piece of metal, and is free from the above objection. Some¬ 
times the drawing paper is moistened so as to expand it, then stretched and pasted at its edges to the 
board. In drying it shrinks tight like a drum head. 

The T square, so called from its resemblance to the letter T, is used for drawing lines parallel or 
perpendicular to the edges of the drawing board. Lay the blade flat on the board with the head in 
the left hand, and slide the blade up and down the board keeping the head accurately pressed against 
the left edge of the board. Lines drawn along the upper edge of the blade in any of these positions 
will be parallel with each other and with the front and back edges of the board. They are also perpen¬ 
dicular ( i . £., “ square ”) to the ends of the board. Now turn the T square across the board holding the 


— 28 — 


head pressed against its front edge, and slide the blade from left to right and back again. All lines 
drawn along the edge of the blade in the new positions will be parallel with each other and with the 
sides of the board. They will also be perpendicular to the first set of lines. 

Some T squares are made with a split head, one-half of which is movable and can be set to any 
angle. The blade of the T square should rest on the head ; it should not be sunk into it, as is some¬ 
times done. 

Triangles are of two kinds, the 45 triangle and the 30 or 60' triangle. In the former both acute 
angles are of 45 and the sides or “legs” enclosing the right angle are equal. In the other triangle one 
acute angle is of 30 while the other is of 60 and the “legs” are unequal. In each triangle the slant 
side, called the “ hypothenuse,” is the longest, and in the 30 (or 60 ) triangle the shortest side is 
exactly half as long as the hypothenuse. Triangles are made of wood, rubber, celluloid, metal, paper, 
etc. A good size for ordinary use is one with legs 6 inches long. 

Triangles are used for drawing angles of 30 , 45 and 60", and for drawing parallels and perpen¬ 
diculars to other lines, as follows : Let it be required to draw a line parallel with a given line AB, and 
one inch above it. Place either triangle so that one edge shall coincide with AB, then place a straight 
edge or the blade of the T square, or another triangle, accurately against some other edge of the first 
triangle. Now, holding the straight edge immovable, slide the triangle along it till the edge which 
coincided with AB is one inch above it, then draw a line along this edge ; it will be parallel with the 
line AB. The triangle may be shifted to any number of new positions, and lines drawn along the same 
edge. If the straight edge remain unmoved all these lines will be parallel with AB. 

Problem II. To draw through a given point C, a perpendicular to a given line AB. Place either 
triangle so that one of its legs shall coincide with AB ; the other leg will then be perpendicular to AB. 
Now apply as before, a straight edge to the hypothenuse of the triangle, and, holding the straight edge 
immovable, slide the triangle along till the leg which in the first position was perpendicular to AB 
coincides with the point C. Now draw through C a line along this leg ; it will be perpendicular to 
AB. If the straight edge be held unmoved, the triangle may be shifted to many other positions ; every 
line drawn along the same edge will be perpendicular to AB. 


— 29 — 


Scales are indispensable in architectural work. They are made of wood, metal, celluloid, paper, 
etc., in great variety. A carpenter's two foot rule, divided into eighths and sixteenths of an inch 
answers all ordinary requirements. Paper scales are more accurate and more convenient in many re¬ 
spects, if kept clean. The scales most used for general drawing are the ‘‘eighth scale” and the 
“quarter scale,” i. e., one-eighth of an inch to the foot, and one-quarter inch to the foot. For details 
the “three-quarter” and the “inch and one-half scale ” are much used, and a good deal of work is 
drawn “ full size.” The “three-quarter scale ” is one-sixteenth of the full size ; the “ inch and one- 
half scale” is one-eighth the full size of the object. 

The dividers, as their name implies, are for dividing or sub-dividing lines or spaces, and for trans¬ 
ferring dimensions to a drawing from a scale or from another drawing. Learn to open and close them 
with one hand, without the aid of the other, and take care to keep the points straight and sharp and 
of the same length. Hair spring dividers have a screw adjustment which is delicate and exact, and is 
often of great sendee. 

The compasses closely resemble the dividers, and may be used for the same purposes. But 
the “legs” are removable, and in their places may be inserted other “furniture,” as the needle point, 
the pencil point, the pen, and the extension bar. All these are used in drawing circles or circular 
curves. It is customary to turn a full circle with one continuous sweep of the compasses. 

For very small circles smaller instruments are made, called the “bow pencil ” and the “ bow pen.” 
There are also small dividers controlled by a screw and called “ spacers.” 

The ruling pen is for retracing in ink the lines previously drawn with the pencil. Hold it lightly 
in such a position that both blades bear alike on the paper and it will produce a firm black line of 
uniform thickness. The thickness of the line is varied instantly by the set screw, which is worked 
by the same hand which holds the pen. This is readily acquired by practice. When the points are 
dull they can be sharpened on a fine stone. Never allow ink to dry in the pen. Keep all drawing 
instruments perfectly clean. 

In drawing papers Whatman’s has long enjoyed a preference with architects as the best in the 
market. It comes in many different sizes of sheet, mounted and unmounted. As several copies of the 


3 ° — 


same set of drawings are generally required, it is customary to make “tracings” of the originals on 
transparent linen, called “ tracing vellum,” or on tracing paper. From these tracings “blue prints” 
may be obtained in any quantity by the aid of the sun. Black prints are also made from them, likewise 
bine lines on a white ground. There are also processes by which colored drawings can be duplicated in 
color without the intervention of tracings. The cost of making “blue prints” is about three cents 
per square foot. 

India (or Chinese) ink is used in architectural drawing, as it gives a jet black line which is very 
durable. It comes in sticks of various sizes and prices. Some of these are scented, to conceal the 
otherwise offensive odor of the ink. The sticks are rubbed up in a saucer with a very little water to a 
consistency as thick as will flow freely from the drawing pen. There is also quite a variety of liquid 
inks, as Higgins’, Winsor & Newton’s, etc., which are very serviceable. 

There are many special instruments which are of value to professional draftsmen, but are not 
required by amateurs. Their description may be found in the dealers' catalogues, with prices, etc.* 

* A more detailed description of drawing instruments and their uses may be found in a book entitled "Drafting Instruments." by Prof. S. 
E. Warren, published by John Wiley's Sons, Mew York, and costing $1.25. 


CHAPTER V. 



PLANNING WITH INSTRUMENTS. 

[IIAPTER II gives a general description of dimensions and the conventional signs, 
etc., which are the “language” of house plans, and Chapter IY treats of ordinary 
drawing instruments, scales, etc., with their elementary uses. A few practical 
problems now require attention as preliminary to the actual operations of planning 
with instruments. 

A house plan is not intended for a picture, 
to be hung on the wall : it is a working drazv- 
itig for use in constructing the house. Hence, accuracy is the first 
requirement, and the problems which follow are to promote accuracy 
with pencil and pen. 

Problem I. Fig. 28. To draw an equilateral triangle on a 
given base AB.* Draw the base AB with the T square, and, keeping 
the blade parallel with AB, draw at A and B with the aid of the 
60 triangle lines AC and BC. If the triangle is “true,” and the 
lines are carefully drawn they will meet in a point C, such that AB, 

AC and BC will be equal. Test their equality with the dividers. 

Should the triangle not be sufficiently accurate, a perfect FiR . 28. 

equilateral triangle may be obtained with the compasses as follows: From A and B as centres, with the 
line AB as a radius, describe circular arcs to intersect as shown in a point C. Join AC and BC. ABC 
is the triangle required. 

Problem II. Fig. 29. To draw a regular hexagon, each of whose sides shall be of a required 

* An equilateral triangle has its three sides, and consequently its three angles equal. Each angle is of sixty degrees. 



A 


B 


— 32 



length AC.* Take the side AC for a radius in the compasses 
and draw a circle. Draw a diameter AB, and from each of its 
ends set off the distance AC in both directions, i. e., at A set 
off the distance at AC and AF, and at B set it off at BD, BE. 
Join the six points so found by straight lines, as shown. Test 
these lines with the dividers ; they must all be equal. 

The sides AF and CE make angles of 120° with AC, and 
of 6o° with AC extended right and left. Hence a regular 
hexagon may be drawn with the aid of the sixty degree triangle 
and the dividers, but not quite as readily as by the above method. 

Problem III. Fig. 30. To draw a regular octagon.f To 
convert a square A B C D into a regular octagon draw the 
diagonals AC, BD. Take 
the half diagonal AE and at each corner set off this distance on 
each of the two sides which meet at that corner. This will give 
eight points on the sides of the square. Join them by straight ^ 
lines ; the result will be the octagon required. Test the equality 
of the lines with the dividers. 

If it be required to draw a regular octagon with a given length 
to each side, the side of the corresponding square may be closely 
approximated thus: Multiply the given side by 2.41. If the 45° 
triangle is accurate the required octagon on a given side may be 
drawn directly with this triangle and the dividers, since every line 
is either parallel with the base, or at right angles to it or at an ^ 
angle of 45’ with it. This shape is much used for bay windows. 

* A hexagon is a closed figure of six sides. If these sides are equal the figure is called a regular hexagon. The angles are also equal, 
f A regular octagon is a closed figure with eight equal sides. Its eight angles are also equal. 




— 33 — 













Problem IV. Fig. 31. To draw a line making an exact angle of 
45' with a given line AB. Extend the line as shown to any convenient 
distance BC, and on BC draw a square BCDE. The diagonals of this 
square make angles of 45° with its sides and base. 

Problem V. Figs. 32, 33, 34. To find the centre of a square, 
rectangle, rhombus, etc. Any four-sided closed figure whose opposite ^ 
sides are parallel, is a parallelogram. Its centre is at the intersection of 



Fig. 31. 



Fig. 32. 



its diagonals. A parallelogram w 

B 



2 sides and angles are all equal 
but the sides unequal, it is a 
are equal and the angles un¬ 
equal, it is a rhombus. Fig. 
33. The opposite sides of 
even' parallelogram are equal, 
also the diagonally opposite 
angles. 

o 

Problem VI. Fig. 35. To 
draw a circle through any three 
points as ABC. Join the points 
by straight lines, called 
M Chords,” and at the middle 
- 34 — 


s a square. If the angles be equal, 
rectangle. Fig. 32. If the sides 


B 



Fig. 35- 


Fig. 36. 













of each chord draw a perpendicular to it. These will meet in 
the centre of a circle which will pass through the given points. 

Problem VII. Fig. 36. If a part of a circle is given, to 
find its centre and complete the circle. Join any three points 
as ABC on the given circle and proceed as in problem VI. 

Problem VIII. Fig. 37. To divide a given line AB into 
a required number of equal parts. At either end of AB draw a 
line AC in any direction whatever, and on AC lay off any 
distance as many times as there are to be divisions in AB (in Fig. 37. 

this case seven times). Join the last point C with B, and through each of the other points on AC draw 
parallels with BC. These will divide AB equally. This method is useful in planning stairs. 

Problem IX. Fig. 38. To construct an exact right angle 
independently of T square and triangles. There is often a slight 
inaccuracy in drawing board, T square and triangles, so that 
when an exact right angle is required resort must be had to an 
independent method. On a given line lay off any convenient 
distance five times as at 1, 2, 3, 4, 5. With the point O as a 
centre and the distance O3 for a radius, draw a short circular arc. 
Then with the point 4 as a centre and the distance O5 as a 
radius draw another circular arc. From the point A, where these 
arcs cross draw a straight line AO. This is the line required to make an exact right angle, or angle of 
90°, with the line O5. 

A careful observance of these instructions, with those in Chapters II and IV, should enable the reader 
to plan an ordinary house with sufficient accuracy for practical purposes. Parties inexperienced in 
proportioning rooms, halls, verandas, etc., can readily correct this defect by observing and measuring the 
houses they occupy and others. In designing exteriors, a good rule for amateurs is to note and measure 
those which please them, also to analyze those which are not pleasing and find wherein the defects consist. 

— 35 — 









CHAPTER VI. 


v 


COLORING, LETTERING, FIGUREING, ETC. 

OUSE PLANS, when drawn, are colored to represent their material, as briefly indicated in 
Chapter II. Bine is used for stone, red for brick and yellow for wood. Iron may have 
a paler blue than stone, or it may have a tint of pale India ink. Concrete is shown by 
a blue tint filled with ink dots or “spatters.” Glass is green, copper is a dark orange 
in color. Plastering is seldom colored, neutral tints may be used. For terra-cotta, use 
a brick red and section-line it, i. e ., cover it with cross lines moderately far apart. 

For stone color, cobalt, indigo, ultramarine or Prussian blue are suitable. For brick, 
use India red, vermilion or carmine. For wood, use yellow ochre, burnt sienna or raw 
sienna. These are all “ water colors,” so called because in use they are mixed with water instead of 
oil. Water colors are sold by dealers in architects’ supplies, drawing instruments, etc. They may be 
had in cakes and lialf-cakes, at prices from five cents each upward. They are prepared for use by 
rubbing them in a porcelain dish with a little clear water. 

What are called “ moist colors,” of the consistency of thick jelly, are sold at about the same prices. 
They are in little porcelain pots, and are taken up as wanted on a wet brush. They are more conven¬ 
ient for use than the cake colors, and there is no loss from breakage and crumbling away. Neat 
japanned tin boxes are sold with an assortment of moist colors, and enameled trays and palettes for 
mixing them. These are cheap, compact and very serviceable. 

There is also a variety of liquid colors in bottles, including liquid inks, as Higgins’ink, etc., which 
are much in demand 

Water colors are used very thin, a single drop often being sufficient for a tablespoonful of water. 
So used, the white of the paper seems to shine through and illuminate them. Thick colors, on the 
contrary, are dull and uneven in appearance. The colors are applied with small camel’s hair or sable 
brushes, costing from five cents apiece upward. Quill brushes are handled more conveniently if a 

— 36 — 



wooden handle is cut and slipped into the quill. All brushes and color dishes must be cleaned out after 
use, and the cake colors, including the India-ink sticks, must be wiped dry or they will crack to pieces. 

In coloring a drawing, begin at the top with a brush moderately full of color, and bring the tint 
down by successive strokes of the point of the brush, taking care not to go back over a part already 
colored, since this would leave a cloud; also to leave the front edge of the color so wet as not to dry 
while replenishing the brush, to prevent a cloud at the juncture of successive washes. It is often 
advantageous to tilt the drawing board, by lifting the back edge so as to give it a decided slant forward. 
This facilitates the downward flow of the tint. The coloring must be uniform throughout, without 
brush marks or clouds, and without over-running the ink or pencil lines. 

India-ink, being itself a water color, is apt to soften and run if a moist brush is passed over it too 
often. To avoid this, a drawing may be colored while in pencil and inked after the color is dry, or a 
special water-proof ink may be used. A dexterous colorist will often color an inked drawing without 
disturbing the ink lines at all, but this requires experience. Still another method sometimes practised 
is to ink the lines, then with a very wet sponge and abundance of clear water to wash off all the surplus 
ink. This requires dexterity, and is employed only on display drawings : it is not recommended 
for working plans. 

The lettering and figuring of drawings is a very important matter. Except in titles, all display is 
to be avoided. The essentials of lettering are simplicity, neatness, quickness of execution, and, above 
all, perfect legibility. The various drawings and advertising pages in this book furnish many excellent 
examples of lettering, both plain and ornamental. A quite common fashion of the day is to imitate 
ancient Roman orthography in writing V and U alike (thus, HOVSE), and to select irregular, quaint 
styles of letters. This fancy may be indulged so long as it does not impair the legibility of the lettering 
and so lead to confusion. 

In figuring drawings, as in lettering them, the first essentials are accuracy and legibility. Let 
each figure be of good size, and so completely and distinctly made as to preclude any possibility of its 
being mistaken for anything else, however much the drawings may become stained and soiled. It is a 
good plan to make a zero as nearly circular as possible ; to carry the stems of the sevens and nines well 

57 ~~ 


below the line, and the stems of the sixes as far above the line ; to make the figure four as it is made in 
type ; and to close the round head of the nines, not to leave it open so as to be mistaken for a careless 
figure seven. 

There is also a method to be observed in arranging the figures on plans. The duodecimal system, 
i. e., the system of feet and inches, is used in architectural work, although for engineering constructions 
the decimal system is generally preferred. A common practice is to designate feet by a single accent 
and inches by two accents, thus, 12 4". A safer plan is to interpose a horizontal dash or hyphen 
between the feet and the inches, thus, 12'—4". With this system, it is immaterial whether the accents 
are used or not. Where there are no inches use a zero, thus, 12—o. If a dimension is wholly in inches 
write it thus, 21", to prevent the possibility of its being mistaken for two feet and one inch. 

Outside dimensions are figured from “ out to out,” as it is called. Intermediate measures are best 
shown “to centres,” i. e ., from the outside of the end wall to the centre of each opening, and to the 

centre of each intermediate wall or partition, etc. Dotted 
lines with arrow heads and crosses, all as shown in Fig. 28, 
indicate precisely the limits to which the figures relate. 
Every dimension should be figured clearly, as here shown, 
since drawings are subjected to rough usage on the building, 
and are apt to shrink and become distorted and obscured, 
so that scale measurements from them are unreliable. More¬ 
over, workmen are more apt to be hasty or careless in taking 
scale measurement than the owner, consequently such work should not be left to them. 

A carefully lettered and figured set of drawings greatly facilitates and expedites the task of house 
building, lessens the chances of mistakes, and very often results in a material saving in its actual cost. 


«-• -2-0.X. 3 -Z -* 

1 



1 

1 




f 

V 

- H-O - 

-X- 

- 7-2--- 

-X. 



Fig. 28. 


- 33 - 























CHAPTER VII. 


SPECIFICATIONS. 



FTER the drawings are as complete as possible a specification must be written, to explain 
the plans where necessary, and to give such additional information as may be required 
fully to describe the kind of house, the material, the construction, the mode of finish¬ 
ing, etc. Contractors are presumed to know nothing of these matters beyond what 
is shown in the drawings and specifications. Their bids will cover only what is found 
in these documents, and anything else is likely to be an “extra,” which will be done 
only for extra pay, and often at a materially higher rate than is charged for the 
other work. 

It is often advantageous to reserve some parts of the work to be furnished by the owner and set by 
him, such as the mantels, the heating apparatus and the lighting fixtures, or to be set by the contractor, 
as the door and sash locks, sliding-door hangers, sash lifts, bell pulls, and other “shelf hardware.” 
The heating apparatus should be selected early, so that the house, with its flues, pipes, etc., may be 
built accordingly. 

There are certain parts of a specification which are nearly the same for all houses of a similar 
character, and may therefore be embraced in a general specification, such as is given below. This 
must be supplemented by a special specification, covering all points omitted in the general specification, 
and varying more or less with every new house. 


GENERAL SPECIFICATION. 


Sec. I — The Owner —The owner reserves the right to reject any or all bids, to insure the builder’s risk 
till the work is done at the cost of the general contractor, and to order in writing any desired changes without 
invalidating the contract, a price for such changes to be mutually fixed in writing beforehand and added to 
the contract price or deducted front it as the change may require. In case of failure so to agree the matter 

-39 — 


shall be referred to three arbitrators, chosen one by the owner, one by the contractor and the third by the other 
two. The decision of two of these arbitrators shall be final. 

Sec. 2 —The General Contractor —The general contractor will be responsible for the building from the 
date of his contract till its completion, and for all injury sustained in that time from whatever cause. He 
must lay out the work, give all lines and levels and see that they are properly observed. He must oversee 
and direct every part of the work, so that it shall be properly and promptly done and protected, must pay all 
fees for permits, licenses and other incidentals, and must protect the owner against liens and other damage by 
suitable bond or otherwise. He must keep on the work a responsible foreman to direct it in his own absence, and 
prevent all unauthorized lights and fires, and must keep the premises always free from nuisance and from 
unnecessary rubbish. He must deliver the building within the contract time, whole, sound and swept clean, 
and must promptly make good, without charge, any original defect discovered during the first month of 
occupancy, unless the same is clearly due to no fault of his. He must allow none but skilled mechanics on 
the work. No advantage shall be taken of real or supposed errors in the drawings or specifications, unless 
explicitly mentioned in the bid. Everything shown either in the drawings or specifications, or clearly implied 
by their plain intent, is to be furnished and done, unless stated otherwise in the bid. Figured dimensions 
will have precedence over scale measurements, and details over smaller drawings. The general contractor 
must make himself perfectly familiar at the start with all the drawings and specifications, so as to detect any 
misconception or error in advance. No allowance for real or supposed errors in the drawings or specifications, 
which by reasonable skill and care in the contractor might have been detected and corrected in advance. He 
must provide suitable sheds to receive and store materials and tools, also a temporary privy for the workmen, 
all as directed. 

Sec. 3— Sub-Contractors —Sub-contractors must finish, deliver, care for and set up their work promptly 
and in the most skillful manner, without delaying any other contractor and so as to harmonize with the other 
work, as directed by the general contractor, and must clean up their own rubbish as soon as this can be done. 
They must take their dimensions by measuring the building itself, wherever practicable. They must read the 
general contractor’s specification, and each sub-contractor must be responsible for his share of the duties, 
charges and liabilities of the general contractor, also for all acts by his own employes. Each sub-contractor 
must contribute, so far as concerns his trade, toward the excellence of the finished work and its speedy com¬ 
pletion, according to the obvious intent of the drawings and specification. All materials must be new and of 


— 40 — 


the best quality of the kind named, and all must be finished and set up in the most substantial and workman¬ 
like manner, to the satisfaction of the owner. 

Sec. 5 —The Excavation (read Sections I, 2 and 3)—Excavate as on drawings for cellars, areas, trenches, 
posts, piers and other foundations, and as much deeper as may be necessary to reach below frost. All 
excavation to be plumb, straight and true, and kept free from standing water, as directed. When directed, 
fill around foundations with good earth, bank it up, water thoroughly and ram solid, and keep the 
same banked and rammed. Spread material excavated on the premises, or remove, as owner may direct. 
Where there is no cellar, the ground under the building should be raised above the adjacent land sufficiently 
to keep it always dry, but the earth beneath the first floor should not come within one foot of the bottoms of 
the joists. In case of rock excavation, or of filled ground, or other bad strata, a special agreement should be 
had with the owner as to the amount and cost of excavation ; also, for cisterns, privy vaults, sodding, filling, 
and other special earth work. The plumber will trench for his pipes and sewers. 

Sec. 6 —The Stone and Brickwork (read Sections I, 2 and 3)—Stone foundations, walls, piers, and 
all other stone masonry will be first-class rubble of the best local building stone, with suitable stone 
footings laid to a line, both sides straight, plumb and true, and bonded in the best manner, carefully pointed 
outside and inside and leveled off and capped with large flat stones at the proper height for the superstructure, 
as drawn. Above ground face all visible walls with selected stone of good size, shape and color. Finish all 
openings with large stones dressed to fit the wooden frames. Provide 4-inch stone footings to all walls and 
piers not shown otherwise ; these must project entirely without the walls not less than 4 inches. All masonry 
must be carried up together. Where there is no cellar, leave holes as directed to ventilate below first floor. 
Carry all foundations to the depths shown on drawings, and as much lower as may be necessary to go below 
frost line. 

Pay all the above in mortar of the best local lime and clean, sharp sand, mixed in a box and so made as 
to produce the strongest and best mortar, and fill all spaces solid with mortar and spalls. Pit sand should be 
screened carefully. 

Sec. 7 —Brickwork (read Sections I, 2 and 3—The best quality of merchantable brick will be used 
above the level of the first floor, and the best hard red brick below, unless otherwise shown or agreed, all laid 
in the best local lime and sand mortar, as in Section 6, the facings to be of the best selected brick, all bricks 
sprinkled clean and laid wet (except in freezing weather), each five courses to be not over 13 inches high, 

— 41 — 


4-inch trimmer arches to all fire-places, and hearths to same of best selected red bricks, laid dry and bedded in 
the best manner (unless shown otherwise), approved arches over all openings, all walls carried up together, 
no toothing, every sixth-course headers slushed, all joints filled with mortar and neatly struck, except 
where to be plastered. The general contractor will set frames, but the bricklayer must wall them in solid 
and plumb, and must insert as directed wooden plugs, anchors, hot air flues, etc., furnished by the general 
contractor. All flues must be stuck smooth inside, not pargetted, and all withs must be built and bonded into 
chimney walls as they go up, not set in afterward. Procure from the tinner suitable strips of painted tin, and 
insert them as directed in the joints for counter flashings to the roof, etc. 

Sec. 8 —The Carpenter Work (read Sections i, 2 and 3) —Usually the carpenter is also the general 
contractor, and he will be so considered unless otherwise stated herein. All lumber not shown other¬ 
wise will be sound, merchantable second quality white or yellow pine, as agreed, as dry and as well seasoned as 
the local market affords, the joists gauged, crowned and jointed (and in brick buildings beveled 3 inches at 
ends and resting not less than 4 inches on the walls), all joists and rafters in one length across the building 
when not over 18 feet long, unless shown otherwise. All studding 2x4, unless shown otherwise, the joists 
and studs 16 inches from centres, the rafters 20 inches from centres, double joists under partitions, the wall 
studs to frame building to be in one length from sill to roof plate, unless spliced in gable ends. Frame double 
trimmers and headers around fire-places (and prepare for trimmer arches), also for chimneys,stairs and other 
openings; no timber to enter a flue for any reason, nor to come within one inch of it. Securely cover with 
tin or slate the side of all timber adjacent to any flue. Frame veranda floors with a slant of 1 inch to 6 feet, 
to shed water. In the mid-height of all stud partitions, and in each floor of 14 feet span or less, provide one 
row I % x 2U bridging, securely nailed at both ends of each piece with two ten-penny nails, and add one 
additional row of bridging for every 5-foot additional span. Anchor all joists to brick walls by approved 
wrought iron joist anchors about 8 feet apart. All framing to be with tenon and tusk. 

Inside studs must not stand on the joists, but must pass between them where possible and stand on the 
sill, or plate, or w r all below. Plates to be two layers 1x4, unless shown otherwise, breaking joints. Upper 
floors to frame buildings will stand on 1x4 girt, let flush into inside face of stud and well nailed. The walls 
of frame buildings must be stiffened with diagonal bracing at all corners in the best manner, as directed. Put 
up boards and other supports necessary for plumbing work, and cut and patch for all other trades, as 
directed. All framing must be accurately cut and fitted, and all nailed and spiked and secured in the most 


— 42 — 


substantial and workmanlike manner. Studs must be doubled at corners and all openings. Truss all door 
and window heads in the most substantial manner. (See detailed provisions of special specifications 
hereto attached.) 

Sec. 9 — Roofs, Sheathing, Siding , Furring, etc .—Cover all roofs and outside walls with good seasoned 
white pine undressed sheathing, free from shakes, cups, rot and large knots or holes, cut square at ends, laid 
close joints, secured with two ten-penny nails to each stud and rafter, no board over io inches wide and all 
to break joints, as directed in each course. Over this on walls and roofs lay one thickness of best sheathing 
felt, or equivalent, well nailed and lapped i inch at all joints. Cover all roofs, including dormer sides and 
roofs, with best *A* white pine sawed shingles, 3 to 7 inches wide, laid 5 inches to the weather; the eaves 
and ridges double coursed, hips carefully mitered, valleys open 6 inches in the clear. Tin valley linings 
must be laid and painted before shingling, and the carpenter must provide and shingle in approved flashings 
of painted tin around chimnej^s, and all other vertical surfaces, and cover the same securely with the counter 
flashings inserted by bricklayer, as in Section 7. Guarantee all roofs 12 months. On all outside walls, not 
shown otherwise, lay second common white pine siding, 4 *2 inches to the weather. Ceil all verandas and 
porches, not shown otherwise, with % matched yellow pine ceiling, 3-inch count, all strips in one length, 
no cross joint, also the planciers to all eaves and gables. 

Outside casings and corner boards to be I % X4M, unless shown otherwise. 

See details for cornices, porches, dormers, canopies and gables. All outside trim to be dry, seasoned 
second clear white pine, unless shown otherwise. Fur as necessary for plaster arches, etc. 

SEC. IO —Floors and Wainscot —All flooring to be matched, tongued and grooved, mill-dressed second 
rate Ji white pine or select yellow pine 4-inch count or under, as dry as the market affords, secret-nailed and 
hand-smoothed afterward in the best manner. Hardwood floors should not be laid before plastering is done. 
Around all hearths cut in a hardwood border. All veranda and other outside flooring must be 1 % white 
pine, all strips in one length without cross joints in outside floors and in all wainscot and outside ceilings. 

All wainscot not shown otherwise will be 3 feet high of the same material and widths as the inside 
flooring and neatly capped, to be securely nailed at its top, middle and base to suitable grounds. All wooden 
ceiling to be /{ white or yellow pine, tongued and grooved 4-inch count and under, of same quality as the 
flooring. For inch partitions use flooring as above, dressed both sides. See detailed provisions of special 
specifications hereto attached. 


— 43 — 


Sec. II — Doors , Windows and Blinds —All doors and jambs and all sashes, blinds and casings must be 
second clear white pine, unless shown otherwise, hand-dressed smooth. Doors thicker than \ J-i inch must 
be in two thicknesses glued and screwed together. Provide Js jambs with moulded rebate strip nailed on or 
iiNs rebated jambs to all doors, all jambs wider than 8 inches to be neatly reeded or paneled, closet jambs not 
over 6 inches wide may be single rebated ; all others double rebated, transom sash of same thickness as door 
where marked T. L. on plans, to be hinged or pivoted as directed, and to have moulded bar. All doors not 
shown otherwise will be four panel I H solid mould raised panel, all with suitable hardwood thresholds. To 
outside cellar steps not shown otherwise provide batten doors of white pine flooring same as in Section io, 
put together with screws or wrought nails, and securely fastened inside. 

Cellar and attic windows will have 1 % dressed plank frames and I % swinging sash unless shown other¬ 
wise ; box frames elsewhere with hardwood pulley stiles and strips, best turned axle pulleys, best American 
sash cord, iH lip moulded sash, framed, wedged and pinned in the best manner. Outside blinds, if ordered, 
should be iH to thick, half rolling. See detailed provisions of special specifications hereto attached. 

Sec. 12. In closets, and wherever not shown otherwise, provide single member 4-inch flat casings and 
6-inch beveled base with quarter round, all with butt joints, no miters. To windows not shown otherwise 
provide I }s moulded stool and apron. Case kitchen sink in dressed stuff with hardwood grooved drip as 
directed. All shelving to be Js C select white pine, or poplar of equivalent quality, dressed both sides. Pro¬ 
tect plaster corners with 1%-inch turned bead. The cap to bath tubs and the trim to water closets and hand 
basins are furnished by the plumber. All inside trim must be hand-finished smooth. See detailed provisions 
of special specifications hereto attached. For panel backs, chair rail, picture mould, cedar closets, fencing, 
wooden mantels, tile hearths, etc., see below. 

Sec. 13 —The Hardware —The owner will furnish on order from the builder and at his risk all outside 
door bell pulls, all door and sash locks, lifts and bolts, transom workers, blind hinges and fasteners and 
wardrobe hooks, to be put on by the builder, who will furnish at his own expense and put on all other hard¬ 
ware complete. Fit the door locks, then remove and replace after the painting is done. Provide rubber 
tipped turned base knobs to all doors opening against plaster. Provide T or strap hinges and suitable fasten¬ 
ing to cellar way batten doors. For sliding door hangers, bronze hinges, hardware and other specialties, see 
below. 

Sec. 14 —The Stair Work (see Sections 1, 2 and 3)—Inside stairs will have I % yellow pine treads, 

— 44 — 


% risers of white or yellow pine, as preferred, firmly supported on 2-inch plank carriages at both ends and 
middles, the treads tongued and grooved into risers, the steps housed into wall strings, wedged up, glued 
and nailed in the most substantial and workmanlike manner, to have return nosings, scotia and fillet on 
face string, which will be l% inches thick, rebated and beaded as shown, the wall string moulded to match 
base. Cover the treads with boards as soon as up, for protection. Outside steps to correspond with the above, 
but to be of white pine well supported on good cedar posts firmly set and sunk below frost, the steps to have 
return nosings, no scotia. Cellar stairs to have treads as above, no risers, and a good pine or poplar dressed 
rail and post. See detailed provisions of special specifications hereto attached. 

Sec. 15 —The Plaster Work (see Sections I, 2 and 3)—Lath all ceilings, studding, furring, and under¬ 
side all stairs, except to cellar, with the best seasoned white pine lath, %-inch spaces, breaking joints 
every eighth lath, no bark, resin nor other defect. Plaster throughout with best three-coat laid off work, 
plaster paris or sand finish as directed. Finish straight, true and smooth without cracks, pits or other fault. 
Run the brown coat down to the floors everywhere. No plastering in attic nor below first floor unless shown 
otherwise. No plaster mixed on the floors nor placed there for any purpose. Mix plaster mortar in a box 
ten days or more before use, all to be of the best local lime, screened sand and sound clean winter hair in such 
proportions as to produce the best plaster, the lime to be run through a sieve. Brick work brushed clean, 
sprinkled and plastered while wet. Allow for heating in cold weather, and guarantee all plaster from freez¬ 
ing. Patch after the other trades, as directed. See detailed and special specifications hereto attached. 

Sec. 16 —The Metal Work (see Sections I, 2 and 3). Unless shown otherwise all tin roofing, flashings, 
counter flashings and tin linings to valleys and gutters, also tin speaking tubes and rainwater conductors 
and valves, will be of I. C. leaded plate, and all hot-air tubes of I. C. bright charcoal tin plate, all put 
up with properly locked and soldered seams in the most substantial and most workmanlike manner—all to 
have one heavy coat of paint underside before laid and another coat on top by tinner as soon as laid. Provide 
the bricklayer with suitable zinc or painted tin counter flashings to be built into chimney tops, etc., at the 
roof line, and furnish suitable flashings of the same for the carpenter to shingle in with his roofs. Run gutters 
up under the shingles two inches above the front line of the gutter and provide suitable conductors with all 
necessary elbows, all of I. C. tin. Test the slope of wooden gutters before lining them, to insure a proper 
construction. Fasten hanging gutters with good straps of the same material every three feet, and fasten 
conductors securely every five feet high. Provide sheet iron thimbles and tin covers to flue holes, to be set 


— 45 — 


and plastered in by the plasterer. Plug the ends of speaking tubes till plastering is done, then solder on 
approved tin mouthpieces and whistles. Valley lining to shingle roofs to be 14 inches wide to all valleys 
unless shown otherwise. For galvanized ironwork, hot-air tubes, furnaces, skylights, etc., see below. 

Sec. 17 —The Plumber's Work (see Sections 1, 2 and 3)—Provide fixtures, as shown, in complete work¬ 
ing order, w T ith all necessary and customary faucets, traps, plugs, connections and fittings. All wastes to 
have suitable lead trap and brass clean-out screw r . 

Rubber plugs to hand basins, suitable air chambers where Fuller faucets are used, all plumbing to com¬ 
ply with local health and other ordinances; all pipes to be lead unless shown otherwise. No joists to be cut 
farther than 18 inches from their supports, all cutting and patching of the woodwork to be done by the car¬ 
penter, who will also provide, as directed, suitable strips to support all plumbing. Fill copper-lined baths 
with clean shavings as soon as set, for protection. Soil pipe joints must be run with melted lead on a hemp 
gasket and calked tight, as required, to be well tarred inside and outside before set up, the line of soil pipe 
to rise through the roof with a water-tight lead joint and rise to the level of the ridge of the highest roof. 
All connections to be through Y or T branches with brass or copper ferrules calked tight, as above, with 
melted lead. All pipes tested per city ordinance, where so required, and all plumbing, sewers, etc., to con¬ 
form to same. 

Lay drains of best vitrified salt-glazed earthemvare to drain cellars as soon as excavated, and connect 
with rain-water conductors as soon as the roofs are on ; all sewers laid with proper uniform fall, 12 inches 
or more below the cellar floor, where there is a cellar, and not less than 2 feet deep elsewhere, all connections 
and bends to be with suitable curves or Y and T branches, each section bedded solid for its whole length, all 
joints under the house wetted and filled with equal parts best hydraulic cement and the finest sand obtainable. 
The plumber will dig the trenches for his sewers, and when laid w r ill fill them again, bank up, water and ram 
till they remain filled. 

Sec. 18 —The Painter's and Glazier's Work (see Sections 1, 2 and 3)—Use pure linseed oil, strictty 
pure white lead and the best colors throughout, all to be well and evenly laid on. Paint all stairs and 
steps and all other dressed woodwork inside and outside, except inside floors, three coats lead and oil 
as above and of such tint as the owner may select, all knots and pitch properly shellacked, and nail holes 
and cracks puttied properly after priming, all w r ork cleaned by the painter, sandpapered smooth and property 
prepared for painting. Prime exterior work as early as possible, but not in wet weather. No paints stored 

-46- 


nor mixed in the house, and no blinds or other loose work painted inside the house unless in the cellar. The 
painter will be held responsible for all soiling of floors, plaster and other work by his employes or by himself. 

Glaze all sash not shown otherwise with good clear Pittsburg glass. In windows to bath-rooms use 
obscured enameled fancy pattern glass. All glass to be perfectly bedded, bradded and back-puttied and left 
whole and clean on completion of the building. 

Sec. 19 —Electric Work —Wire for electric lights as drawn, using Okonite or Grimshaw wires, all drops 
to work by wall switches, brackets worked by key on fixture. Owner will furnish and set all switches. Provide 
substantial grounds at all outlets to fasten fixtures and switches to. Consult owner as to point where wires 
shall enter building and location of meter, cut-outs, etc. Leave all ends six inches long at outlets. All wires 
to be concealed, and to be enclosed in best safety tubing in passing through walls and wherever necessary 
elsewhere. Locate cut-outs in wall pockets provided by owner. The wires to be copper, commercially pure, 
of 95% conductivity and first-class insulation, balanced so as to insure equal efficiency to every lamp in any 
circuit under all circumstances, the loss of power in wiring not to exceed two per cent, with full number of 
lamps in circuit. Allow not more than ten lamps on one circuit. The entire work to be first-class in all 
respects, open to inspection, and in compliance with the regulations of the local electric light company and 
the local board of fire underwriters. * 


* This General Specification is substantially the same which the author has used in his practice for many years. It is believed to be the most 
practical and most complete General Specification ever printed. 


— 47 — 


CHAPTER VIII. 


ESTIMATING THE COST. 

ERE is no way of determining precisely the cost of a house in advance. This is 
affected by so many contingencies, such as the weather, fluctuations in the prices 
of labor and materials, and by accidents and delays from a multitude of unforeseen 
and unforeseeable causes, that not even the most experienced contractor can tell in 
advance just what a house will cost. He may agree to build it for a certain price, 
and, if there are no extras, this price may be the cost to the owner of the house, but 
the actual cost to the builder cannot be determined till it is done, and all accounts 
are settled. Even then it is often not exactly known. 

Nevertheless there are several methods of approximating the cost in advance, 
which practical men employ, and a competent architect of experience can often 
give “off hand” as close an estimate, without any figuring, as can be had in any 
other way. The temptation is strong to under-estimate the cost in advance, with a moral certainty of 
a more or less severe disappointment afterwards, and owners often exert a pressure upon an architect to 
make a low estimate against his better judgment. 

A quite safe mode of estimating the cost of a house is to ascertain its contents in cubic feet (includ¬ 
ing cellar and attic), then to find a house of similar character whose cost is known, ascertain what this 
cost was per cubic foot, and multiply this figure into the number of cubic feet in the proposed house. 
Even then a margin of ten per cent is advisable for contingencies. For ordinary frame dwellings, eight 
to ten cents a cubic foot is a fair average price, but subject to local variations. For brick houses, 
estimate ten to twelve cents per cubic foot. 

A shorter and simpler method, though less reliable, is to find the cost of a similar house per square 
foot of floor space, and multiply this by the aggregate floor space of the new house. 

-48- 










It has often been found that the total cost of an ordinary brick dwelling is about five times the cost 
of the brick work, i. e ., if the brick work complete costs six hundred dollars, the house itself will cost 
three thousand dollars. 

In preparing bids for the erection of a house, careful contractors “ take off the quantities,” as it is 
called, from the drawings ; i.e., they figure up the amount of earth excavation, of stone work, brick 
work, iron work, etc., etc., and of the labor. Then they multiply these various quantities by the ruling 
prices for each, and, adding a suitable margin for profits and for contingencies, they complete their bids. 
This is the most reliable of all methods, but it is too complicated, and requires too much practical 
knowledge and experience for amateurs to undertake it, or even to understand it. 

As illustrating the relative proportions of the leading items of cost in a house, the following estimate 
is given in detail for a seven-room frame house with brick foundation : 


Excavation- $ 32 00 

Brick work and footings_350 00 

Lumber and base-710 00 

Twenty-three doors and twenty-four windows-480 00 

Two mantels and grates- 60 00 

Stairs- 72 00 

Nails, etc- 40 00 

Plastering-300 00 

Tin w r ork_ 60 00 

Paint and glass- 175 00 

Plumbing and gas-300 00 

Furnace, etc- 130 00 

Labor not included in above-300 00 

Incidentals_ 200 00 


#3,209 00 


— 49 — 

















CHAPTER IX. 


TAKING BIDS AND LETTING CONTRACTS. 

HEN the drawings and specifications are done it is customary to invite bids from 
several contractors for the erection of the building. This is partly to secure lower 
prices than can be had without competition, partly to guard against mistake. If 
bids are nearly alike the lowest may generally be accepted with safety ; but a bid 
which is far below all the others is to be suspected as erroneous and should not be 
accepted without investigation. Mutual good faith is of prime importance in house 
building. No honorable contractor will take advantage of a confiding owner to 
charge more than a fair price for his work, and no owner, in turn, will take advantage of a contractor, 
who has inadvertently figured a job too low, and endeavor by legal forms to extort work from him at 
less than cost. Schemes to get value without returning a just equivalent are as sure to end badly in 
house building as in other enterprises. A fair price for the work and honest work for the price should 
be the rule on both sides. 

It is advisable to invite only those bidders whose services are wanted and then to accept the lowest 
tender, reserving the right, however, to reject any or all bids. The owner should not ask a bid from 
any one to whom he would be unwilling to entrust the work, should his bid be the lowest. A con¬ 
tractor’s time is valuable to him, and, when he devotes that time and skill to making a bid for work, 
it is on the implied but no less valid understanding that, if his bid is lowest, he will be awarded the 
contract. The owner is free to invite competitive bids or not, and he may give his work to one party 
exclusively or he may ask a dozen to bid on it, all without blame ; but, having invited and obtained 
bids, he is morally bound to award the work to the lowest invited bidder. 

A few addresses of responsible contractors are given at the close of this chapter. 



— 5 o— 


Bids should be substantially as follows: 

Eden, January ist, 1894. 

To Mr. Adam, Sr., 

Dear Sir—I (or we) will furnish all materials and labor and will erect and complete your house on 
A street, in this city, according to plans and specifications for the sum of One Thousand Dollars 
($1,000.00). A. B. Blank, Builder, 

1728 A street, City. 

To prevent mistakes the price should be stated both in figures and in words. 

Bids and contracts are made “according to the plans and specifications.” This means that the 
materials and labor called for in the plans and specifications are to be furnished—nothing more and 
nothing different. The contractors are not presumed to know the owner’s wishes except so far as the 
plans and specifications describe them. Hence if another door is wanted, or a window, or if a larger 
door or window is preferred or anything else different from what the plans and specifications contain, it 
will be charged as an “ extra ,” and very often at a higher rate than the contract price. If anything 
is omitted the contractor should make a fair deduction from his bid therefor ; but it is seldom that the 
same price is allowed for omissions which is charged for “extras.” I11 this way disputes often arise 
between owners and contractors, which might have been avoided had the plans and specifications been 
sufficiently complete at the first. 

If changes are wanted a fixed price should be agreed on in advance with the contractor for the same 
and a written memorandum made in duplicate. In default of this it may sometimes be arranged that 
the builder shall charge actual cost of material for the change and a fixed sum per diem for the labor. 
The price of such work is apt to be higher than owners expect, however. 

Drawings, specifications, contracts, etc., should be in duplicate or in triplicate, one copy to be 
retained by the owner. No marks, erasures nor other changes of any kind should be made in these 
drawings or specifications after the work is contracted for without a written agreement with the con¬ 
tractor. Even then it is often advisable to make additional drawings and specifications for all changes, 


-51 — 


so that the reliability of the original records may be unquestioned. Another method is to mark on 
the drawings the changes with their date in red ink without erasing the original lines or figures. 

Good faith is no less obligatory on contractors than on owners. This forbids their taking unfair 
advantage of obvious omissions or other faults in the drawings or specifications, and requires prompt 
notice of any mistakes they may think they have discovered, in order to an explanation or correction by 
the owner. If a feature shown in the drawings is not mentioned in the specification, this fact does not 
relieve the contractor. The drawing is evidence enough of the owner’s intent, and the contractor’s duty 
is to include it in his bid, or, if in doubt, to refer the matter at once to the owner for explanation. 
Obviously the same rule applies to matters found in the specification but not in the drawings. It is 
likewise the contractor’s duty to watch the work and the plans and specifications diligently in order to 
detect inaccuracies, should they exist, promptly and before serious consequences result. 

Sometimes all bids exceed the owner’s limit and a change is necessary in the plans so as to reduce 
the cost ; or there may be other reasons for making changes before closing the contract. It is the cus¬ 
tom among contractors to leave such matters to be adjusted by the owner and the lowest bidder, instead 
of having them all bid anew. 

Contracts should be in duplicate or triplicate, signed and attested before witnesses, one copy to be 
retained by the owner. An excellent printed blank for a building contract has been prepared by a joint 
committee from the National Association of Builders and the American Institute of Architects, pub¬ 
lished in Chicago, Ill., by the Inland Publishing Company of that city. 

In most of the States ‘ ‘ lien laws ’ ’ have been enacted which are often a deplorable snare for un¬ 
wary owners. Under such laws should the general contractor fail to pay in full his workmen or his 
supply dealers they may have recourse against the owner and may collect their claims from him regard¬ 
less of the fact that he may already have paid the full amount due to the general contractor. Conse¬ 
quently it is customary to require from the contractor a bond in the full amount of the contract price, 
signed by himself and responsible sureties, agreeing to repay to the owner all losses, if any, which he 
may sustain by the operation of the lien laws, or through any other violation of the contract. 


— 52 — 


Building contracts generally provide for payments in installments as the work proceeds, i. e ., a 
certain sum to be paid when the first floor joists are laid, another sum when the roof is on, another when 
ready to plaster, etc. Each payment should represent about three-fourths of the value of work and 
material delivered and “in place ” at the time of the payment, or since the previous payment. The 
last payment may be made in about a month after the completion of the building, and the contract should 
require the builder to make good, at his own expense, any original defect discovered during the first 
month of occupancy. 

If these principles, the results of long experience, are duly observed, the disappointments and vexa¬ 
tions which often attend the operation of house building will be largely if not wholly avoided. 

ADDRESSES OF RESPONSIBLE ST. LOUIS CONTRACTORS. 

Anderson Brothers, General Contractors and Builders, Room 52 Laclede Building. 

Adam Bauer, Builder, Room 34 Emilie Building. 

Kerr & Allan, Contractors and Builders, Rooms 212 and 213 Odd Fellows’ Building. 

H. F. Gruetzemacher & Co., Stone Masons, Room 51 Emilie Building. 

Geo. P. Bruce Stone Co., Contractors for Cut Stone, Jefferson and Scott Avenues. 

John Reitz & Co., Contractors for Cut Stone, 3210 Chouteau Avenue. 

J. G. Doyle & Son, Contractors of Brickwork, 717 Chestnut Street. 

Riddle, Rehbein Mfg. Co., Sash, Doors, Blinds and Wood Finish, 1301 O’Fallou Street. 

J. W. Reinhardt, Stair Builder, 23 South Fifteenth Street. 

J. M. Bixler & Co., Plasterers, 105 North Eighth Street. 

John Lyons, Plumber, 415 Morgan Street. 

Ring & Reardon, Plumbers, 3841 Finney Avenue. 

Ruth & Simon, Galvanized Iron Cornices and Arch’l Sheet Metal Work, 1903-5 Locust Street. 

Chas. W. Holland, Painter and Decorator, 411 North Twelfth Street. 

Mullen & Hoppius Painting Co., 114 Olive Street. 


-53- 


CHAPTER X. 


BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS. 

^ ( 

OLD-FASHIONED way of raising a building fund was to lay aside every 
% week or every month, whatever money could be spared for that purpose, 
and when, after months and years of self-privation and severe economy, the 
^ slowly accumulating “nest egg ' 1 ' 1 had reached the requisite dimensions, the 
work of erecting a house was begun, though sometimes the hopeful owner 
would die before its completion. This plan was sure, if no sickness nor accident 
intervened, but it was slow, and involved many privations while boarding or living 
rented quarters till the necessary fund had been saved. The new way is to join a 
,e building association as soon as the plans are ready, build the house and move into 
at once, and then pay the monthly savings back into the building association, where 
they will be safe, instead of putting them in a bank, or in some hiding-place of more doubtful security. 
No time is lost in this way, and the little family is in full possession and enjoyment of the new home 
all the time they are saving up the money to pay for it. Moreover, they cease paying rent, what they 
used to spend in this way now being applied directly to paying for the new house. Then, being stock¬ 
holders in the building association, they share in its annual profits, and this helps materially on the 
payments for the house. 

While building associations of a rude kind have long maintained a feeble existence, the modern 
association on the improved serial plan is of recent date, and its rapid increase is one of the wonders of 
the Nineteenth Century. Six hundred new associations were incorporated in the year 1892, making an 
average of about two new associations for every working day in the year. 

The shares in a building association usually range in value from $100 to $400. A very common 
value is $240 a share. A party wishing to build, subscribes for as many shares as he may require to 



54 — 



pay for the house in full. If his house will cost $2,400, and the shares are $240 each, he takes ten 
shares. O11 these he pays monthly dues of $1 per share, or $10 per month for the ten shares. 

When ready to build he applies for a building loan of $2,400, to be secured by a deed of trust to the 
association until the series “ matures ,” as it is called— i. e ., until the monthly payments, together with 
the dividends which he receives on his ten shares, equal the sum of $2,400. Then the deed of trust is 
released, the monthly dues cease, and the house is delivered to its happy owner paid for in full. The 
profits are derived from interest and premiums on the loans made for every building erected, and the 
monthly payments to borrowing members are increased for this purpose as soon as the building loan is 
taken out. Thus, the borrower pays a premium and interest on his own loan, and shares in the 
premiums and interest paid by every other borrower. 

For the protection of their members, every association has a building committee, usually with an 
experienced architect or builder at its head, which carefully examines all plans and specifications, and 
visits the building from time to time during its progress, so as to see that the material and work conform 
to the contract. This is a great advantage to every borrower, since his building is carefully watched at 
almost no expense to himself. In a building association the interest of one is the interest of all. 

I11 the ninth annual report of the United States Commissioner of Labor, Carroll D. Wright, the 
total number of building associations in the country is stated at 5,838 with 1,745,725 shareholders and 
1:3,255,872 shares. The number of borrowing members is 455,411, or a little over 26 per cent. The 
net assets are over $257.00 per shareholder; the average loan is $1,120.00; the average age of the 
associations is six years. The total number of houses acquired through these associations is 314,755, 
the total profits exceed $80,000,000.00 and the total net assets are over $450,000,000.00. 

These thrifty associations are instructive examples of the benefits of co-operation in the right 
direction, and of the rewards of diligent industry and prudent economy in this country. 


— 55 — 


Name of Association. 

Office Address. 

Secretary. 

Capital 

Stock. 

Shayes. 

Dues. 

Interest. 

Interest 

on 

deposits. 

Accommodation -- _ __ 

19 N. 8th st __ 

C A. M. Schlierholz._ 

$ 600,000.00 
300,000.00 

r 600 , 000.00 

J 600,000.00 
) 600,000.00 
l 600,000.00 

$240.00 

200.00 

240.00 

240.00 

300.00 

309.00 

$1.00 

1.00 

5% 

6 to 7% 

Acme . _ 

812 Chestnut, st 

T. F. Farrelly_ _ 

Active, Nos. l, 2, 3 and 4_ 

1001 Chestnut st _ 

G. W. Davis___ 

5% 

5% 

4% 

4% 

6% 

Si 

6% 

Advance 




./Etna Loan Co.__ 

707 Chestnut st,_ 

T A Johnson_ . . .. 

4,000,000.00 

600,000.00 

600,000.00 

500.00 

300.00 

240.00 


6% 

4% 

5% 

8% 

Allemannia_ 

707 Chestnut st_ 

A C Trebus .. . . 

1.00 

American Investment-- _ 

105 N. 9th st 

A Wenzlick __ 

6 to 7% 

American Mutual 

613 Chestnut st 

K .T Stannns 


Artisan __. 

1110 Pine st _ 

G F Murphy 

600,000.00 
l 500.000.00 

1 480.000.00 
500,000.00 
600,000.00 
000,000.00 
1,000,000.00 
500,000.00 
900,000.00 

240.00 

200.00 

240.00 

200.00 

300.00 

240.00 

400.00 

200.00 

300.00 


5% 

6% 

5% 

18% 

6% 

5% 

c% 

6% 

4% 


♦Aubert Place, Nos. 1 and 2 -- 

816 Chestnut st.._ 

D. B Brennan_ _ 

1.00 

1.00 


Aurora Mutual__ 

717 Chestnut st 

R Rutledge _ _ 

Bank Clerks. _ . _ 

821 Chestnut st. - 

F J Hackman__ 



Banner. __ 

1928 Chouteau ave .. 

F VV Plass 



Beneficial_ __ _ 

713 Chestnut st_ 

C. C. Nicholls_ -. . .. 

2.00 


♦Benton_ - 

604 Pine st 

C E Wehner _ _ _ 


Bohemian No. 2 - -. 

1328 Geyer ave 

A Klohasa _ _ __ 



Bohemian American 

1901 S. i2tli st 




Bremen_ 

3602 N. Rroadway. 







Broadway___ 

608 Marion st_ 

C Messmer 

600,000.00 

300.00 


4% 

4 to 6% 

{Buckeye__ 

708 Chestnut st--_ 

J. J. Gruchy _.. 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 

Caledonia.-. - __ -- 

1021 Chestnut st . 

P. F. Vander Lippe. _ _ .. 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Centennial. _ _ 

10 N. 8th st__ 

M. R. Cramer..-.*_ 

1,200,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Central_ 

Klliot and St. Bonis a,ves_ 





Charter Oak, Nos. l and 2_ 

Odd Fellows’ Block-- 

J. G. O’Keefe___ .. 

t 600,000.00 

300.00 


4% 

6 to 7% 

{Citizens_ __ - . 

1018 Pine st, _ _ 

.1 F Brady 

/ 600,000.00 
500 000.00 

300.00 
200 00 


4% 

6% 

6 to 1% 

Clerks and Mechanics__ _ 

322 Chestnut st _ 

T. A Rice 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Citizens Mutual Savings_ . 



600 000.00 

300.00 


33Vi)% 


Clifton Heights._ _ _ 

19 N. 8th st_ _ 

C A M Schlierholz 

600,009.00 

300 00 


4% 


Climax. ___ _ 

208 Chamber of Commerce_ 

W.F MaoGinnitie 




Columbia, Nos. l and 2 __ 

105 N. 9th st_ ... 

A. Wenzliek 

600,000.00 

200.00 


6% 


{Commercial __... ____ _ 

713 Chestnut st__ 

C. C Nicholls.. 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 


Commonwealth- ... .. _ __ 

902 Chestnut st__ 

Howard Gambrill- 

1,200,000.00 

240.00 

1.00 

6% 


Compton Hill__ _ 

623 Chestnut st___ 

A Hietmeyer 




Concordia... _ ____ 

608 Marion st_ - 

Rollin 

400,000.00 

200.00 


6% 


tCovenant Mutual_____ 

1005 Chestnut st_ 

W. M. Horton 

500 000.00 

200.00 


6% 


{Continental_____ 

713 Chestnut st_ 

C. C. Nicholls 

500 000.00 

200.00 


6% 


Co-operative. ____ 

616 Chestnut st 


600 000 00 

240 00 


5% 


Cote Brilliante._... ... ___ 

714 Pine st _ 

Wm. Zink 

600 000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Crescent___ . 



600 000.00 

300.00 


4% 


Cottage__ _ 

1001 Chestnut st 


600 000 00 

240.00 


5% 


DeSoto Savings__ 

1013 Pine st .. 

J F Brady 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 


Eclipse___ ... 

808 Chestnut st_ 






Economy_ _ ... 

618 Chestnut st 


1 000 000 00 

200 00 

1 00 

6% 


Edison, Nos. 1 and 2_... 

704 Chestnut, st 

W F Parker 

i 0009)00.00 

300.00 

1.00 

4% 





/ 600,000.00 

300.00 

1.00 

4% 


Elaine_ _ 

824 Chestnut st— 

Norfleet Hill 

600 000 oo 

300 00 




Electric_______ 

316 N. 6th st_ 

F. A. Banister- 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 



— 56 — 

























































































































































































































Name of Association. 

Office Address. 

Secretary. 

Capital 

Stock. 

Shares. 

Dues. 

Interest. 

Interest 

on 

Deposits. 

Emerald_ _ 

322 Chestnut st-_ _ 

J. Rice__ 






Enterprise_ - _ --- -- 

1414 S. Broadway___ 

G. H Quellmalz_ _ 






Equality Savings.___ - - 

623 Chestnut st__ _ 

A. Dietmever__- __ 






JE'xcelsior Mutual. ...___ 

1005 Chestnut st. . . 

W. M. Horton __ _ 

500 000 00 

200 OO 




Exchange_ __ ___ 

704 Chestnut st_ 

G. F. Bergfeld -- . __ 

600 000 00 

240 00 

1.00 



Famous~Mutual Savings Fund_ _ .. 

10 N. 8th st. _ _ 

M. R. Cralner_ _ 

1,000 000.00 

200 00 


6 (Vr, 


Firemen’s__7__ 

813 Chestnut, st- _ 

R. F. Kilgen_ . .. 

600 000 00 

240 00 




Fireside___ _ .. 

1006 Chestnut st_ _ 

W. M. Haley..__ 

600 000 00 

240 00 

1 08 1 •{ 


6% 

Forest_ _ . _ 

704 Chestnut st___ 

G. F. Bergfeld__ . 

600 000 00 

300 00 

1.00 

4 C/r, 

Franco-American_ .. _ 

707 Chestnut st_. __ 

J. H. Trembley .. . _ 

600 000 00 

200 00 


6% 


F. P. Blair. _ __ 

6 N. 8th st- 

VV. M. Korhammer_ .. .. 

500 000 00 

200 00 


6% 


Franklin Savings_ ___ 

322 Chestnut st_ 

T. A. Rice._____ 

GOO 000 00 

240.00 


5 CL 


JFraterual ___ 

716 Chestnut st_ __ 

C. F. Vogel_ .. 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5 O/r, 


Future Great_ _ 

16 N. 8th st . - _ 

P. T. Carr__ _ 

GOO OOO 00 

240.00 


5®, 

6 to 7% 

Garfield Savings_ __ __ 

322 Chestnut st_ .. 

T. A. Rice_ 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Garrison Mutual___ 

3203 Easton ave__ _ 

P. T. Madden_ 

500*000.00 

200.00 


6% 


Gas and Electric_ ... _ 

411 N. 11th st_ - - _ 

G. T. Thompson_ _ 




Gen’l Hancock __ .. _- __ 

623 Chestnut st__ 

A. Dietmeyer__ _ 






(iftnnan- American_ _ _ 

623 Chestnut st . 

A. Dietmeyer_ _ 






German Mutual__ __ 

616 Chestnut st_ . _ 

W. K. Walt her_ 

500 000.00 

200 00 


6% 


JGermania_ . __ 

707 Chestnut st .. _ .. 

A. C. Trebus_ __ 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


Gibraltar_ .. _ _ 

Odd Fellows’ Building __ 

H. T. Smith_ _ 

•' OOO III Id no 

200.00 

1.00 


6 to 7% 

{Gladstone - __ _ _ 

618 Chestnut st_7._ 

A. A. B. Woerheide ... _ 

720,000.00 

240.00 

1.00 

5% 

{Globe __ _ 

521 Pine _ 

C. Kuhn __ _ 

600,000 00 

240.00 


5% 


Granite. . _ __ - 

107 N. 8th st_ 

.1. Maguire_ .. . 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 


Great Western _ _ _ _ 

813 Chestnut st.__ 

R. F. kilgen--- -- _ 

600*000.00 

240.00 


6% 


t Harlem __ _ 

716 Chestnut st _ _ 

C. F. Vogel_ _ 

600^000.00 

240.00 


5% 



702 Chestnut st .. _ __ 

C. J. Dunnerman .. . .. 

600*000.00 

300.00 


4% 


Henry Shaw _ __ ____ _ _ 

618 Chestnut st. .. _ 

A. A. B. Woerheide- _ 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 



1013 Pine st. . __ 

J. F. Brady. . 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 

7% 


1908 St. Louis ave__ 

F. Hoevel--.. ... _ 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


17 N 8th st_ 

J. W. Bergfeld_ _ 

480*000.00 

240.00 


5% 

7% 


105 N. 8th st_ 

J. A. Watkins- 

600,000.00 

300.00 


4% 


813 Chestnut St__ 

A. O. Rule_ 

500,000.00 

100.00 

1.00 

7.20% 

7.20% 


211 N. 8th st.... 

U. J. Hayden- 

600,000.00 

240.00 


6%“ 


714 Pine st__ 

W. Zink."_ 

600,000.00 

300.00 


4% 



35401/*) Easton ave_ .. 

M. A. King__ _ 






304 N 8th St_ _ 

L. B. Pierce__..._ 







815 Chestnut st_ _ 

Paul Jones__ _ 

600,000.00 

240.00 


6% 



707 Olive st __ 

A. L. Berry__ 





3602 N. Broadway.- -_ 

C. C. Crone- . .. 

600,000.00 

240.00 

1.00 

5% 

5 to 6% 


4022 Manchester road _ 

A. H. Kansteiner... . ... .. 




311 Commercial Building_ 

C. H. Sawyer— _ 

600,000.00 

400.00 


6% 



714 Pine st_ - -- _ 

W. Zink_ 

500,000.00 

200.00 


6% 



1140 Chestnut, st _ 

M. F. Ruler___ 





1001 Chestnut st. _ 

G. W. Davis-- - 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 



713 Chestnut st__ 

C. C. Nicholls_-_ .. 

1,000,000.00 

400.00 


6% 



322 Chestnut, st__ 

T. A. Rice_ 

600,1100.00 

240.00 


5% 



105 N. 8th St__ 

J. S. Gordon- . - 

600,000.00 

240.00 


5% 


J. B. Eads... 

102 N. 3d St.. 

W. F. MacGinnitie . .. 

600,000.00 

300.00 


4% 



— 57 
















































































































































































































































Name of Association. 


Jefferson—.— 

Knights..— 

Laclede No. 2-- 

Lafayette Mutual_ 

♦Leader_ 

tLegion- - 

Liberty_ 

Lincoln___ 

Lindell Savings.—.— 

Lindenwood_ 

Lucas_ 

Marquette Mutual... 

Mechanics Mutual.— 

Mechanics No. 2__ 

Mercantile No. 2__ 

Merchants_ 

Merchants and Mechanics 

Metropolitan Mutual_ 

Midland_ 

Mississippi.. 

Missouri —... 

Missouri Guarantee_ 

Model Building and Loan- 

Mound City__ 

Mount Olive, Nos. 1 and 2. 
Mullanphy__ 


Mutual Benefit, Nos. l and 2 . 

^National.. — 

JNew Era_ 

New Plan_ 

Nickle Savings.. 

North End- — 

North St. Louis.. 

tNorthwestern_ 

Oak-- 

Park-- — 

Parnell Savings.. 

JPeabody__ 

t Peerless. 


Peter Cooper, Nos. 1 , 2 ,3,4 and 5. 
Phaenix, Nos. 1 and 2_ 


JPowhattan. 

Printing Trades Mutual. 

JProgressive_ 

Prosperity.. 

Provident_ 


Real Estate, Nos. 1 , 2 and 4 . 
Real Estate No. 3- 


Office Address. 


Secretary. 


613 Chestnut st---M. Kelly. 

318 N. 8 th st.-.-.— G. W. Wilson_ 

211 N. 8 th st--D. J. Hayden_ 

706 Pine st..A. L. Thompson. 


318 N. 8 th st-__F. 

3715 N. Broadway---J. 

704 Chestnut st- G. 

921 Chestnut st_ D. 

707 Chestnut st. S. 

921 Chestnut st----D. 

211 N. 8 th st -. iD. 

211 N. 8 th st_ D. 

211 N. 8 th st-.-.D. 

915 Chestnut st-J. 

M. 
H. 
L. 
J. 
J. 
H. 


15 N. 7th st 
1123 Chestnut st 
318 N. 8 th st — 

10312 N. 8 th St— 

318 N. 8 th st_ 

1001 Chestnut st 

219 N. 4 th st_|B. 

1813 N. Jefferson ave_A. 

322 Chestnut st—__T. 

623 Chestnut st..| A. 

19 S. Broadway ..— R. 

701 Chestnut st--- Samuel Bowman. 


J. Wade- 

H. Gundlach— 
F. Bergfeld — 

Sheppard- 

Rathell- 

Sheppard- 

J. Hayden- 

J. Hayden- 

J. Hayden- 

F. McDermott 

. T. Sweeney— 

Kotthoff_ 

E. Anderson — 

P. Whyte_ 

H. Holmes- 

. S. Tuttle- 

S. Newland — 

G. Nahm- 

A. Rice. 

Dietmeyer- 

M. Foster_ 


716 Chestnut st-C. 

IOO 6 V 2 Chestnut st.-.B. 

17 N. 8 th st-- J. 

3d and Chouteau ave-J. 


F. Vogel- 

W. Thornhill 
W. Bergfeld— 
Walter.— 


2000 E. Grand ave--J. 

17 N. 8 th st-.—.—. A. 

17 N. 8 th st. J. 

421 Olive st..-.C. 

322 Chestnut st. T. 

618 Chestnut st_ A. 

311 Commercial Building - C. 
405 N. 6 th st., Equitable Bld’g J. 

704 Chestnut st-assigned to A. 

304 N. 8 th st---L. 

618 Chestnut st- A. 

304 N. 8 th St_ S. 

2000 E. Grand ave-E. 

919 Chestnut st..C. 


C. Obert__ 

J. Naughton- 

W. Bergfeld_ 

D. Greene, Jr_ 

A. Rice .. 

A. B. Woerheide. 

H. Sawyer_ 

B. Follett_ 

R. Schollmeyer — 

B. Pierce_ 

A. B. Woerheide. 

S. Spencer. 

W. Woods_ 

F. A. Mueller- 


714 Pine st---W. Zink_ 

620 Chestnut st..|Otto Weber. 


Capital 

Stock. 


$600,000.00 

480,000.00 




1,000,000.00 
480,000.00 
600,000.00 
600,' 00.00 
600,000.00 


Shares. 


$240.00 

240.00 


600.000.00 

600,000.00 


100.00 
240.00 
300.00 
240.00 
240.(X) 


300.00 

200.00 


500,000.00 
600,000.00 ! 
6oo.ooo.oo; 

480,000.00 

5,000,000.00 


600,000.00 


200.00 

240.00 

200.00 

240.00 

1,000.00 


300.00 


600,000.00) 
600,000.00 
600,000.00 j 
600,000.00 
500.000.00 
800,000.00 
1,000,000.00 1 
600,000.1 0 
600,000.00, 
500.000.00( 
500,000.00 
600,000.00 
1,500,000.00 
500,000.00 
600,000.00 
6,600,000.00 
600,000.00; 
500,000.00! 
600,000.00 j 
500,000.00 
6011.000.001 
600,000.00i 
1.000.000.00 
1,200,000.00 
600,1100.00 
1,200,000.00 


240.00 

240.00 

240.00 

240.00 

200.00 

200.00 

250.00 

240.00 

300.00 

200.00 

200.00 

240.00 

300.00 

200.00 

400.00 

240.00 

300.00 

200.00 

240.00 

200.00 

240.00 

240.00 

400.00 

480.00 

300.00 

300.00 


Interest 

Dues. Interest. on 

Deposits. 


1.00 


1.00 

i.oo 


1.00 

1.00 


10.00 


.50 

1.00 

.50 


1.00 

1.00 


5 % 

5% 


7.20% 

5 % 

4% 

5 % 

5 % 


6 to 7% 
5t2t07% 


4 % 

6% 


6 % 

5% 

6 % 

5% 

6 % 


5 % 

55 / 12 % 

55 / 12 % 

5% 

6 % 

6 % 

6 % 

5% 

4% 

6 % 

6% 

6 % 

8 % 

6 % 

6 % 

5»/i2% 

4% 

6 % 

5% 

6% 

5% 

5% 

6 % 

5% 

4% 

4% 


5% 


7% 


7% 


7% 


7% 

"5%' 


6 to 7% 


5% 

6 % 


— 58 - 






























































































































































































































Name of Association. 


Office Address. 


Red Cross- 

Reservoir- 

Revenue . 

Richmond- 

Robert Emmet 


17 X. 8th st- 

8 N. 12 th st _ 

620 Chestnut st- 
821 Chestnut st.. 
4117 Easton ave 


Secretary. 


Capital 

Stock. 


Shares. Dues. 


Interest. 


Interest 

on 

Deposiis. 


A. .T. Naughton—. 
J. F. Klinglesmith 

J. S. Blake.. 

F. J. Hackman_ 

B. E. \Y. Ruler_ 


600,000.00 

600,000.00 


600,000.60 


240.00 

240.00 


1-00 ; 5% 

i- 5% 


300.00 


5 % 


7% 


Rock Springs, Nos. l and 2- 

Royal..... 

♦Safety.---— 

{Security, Nos. l and 2- 

Sherman-- 

Shoe and Leather-- 

Social--— 

South End-- 

South Side- 

{South West- 

Standard--- 

♦Starling... 

♦State Savings No. l- 

Stephen Girard..— 

ISt. Louis Central -... 

St. Louis Home and Savings- 

St. Louis Mutual No. 3.. 

St. Louis Savings—.. 

{St. Louis Turners, Nos. 1 and 2 

Suburban Mutual —.- 

Superior, Nos. 1 and 2-- 

The Leader-- 

Tower- 

Tower Grove and Southwestern 

Trades---. 

Travelers’ P. A..- 

Trust Fund Loan- 

Turners.. 

Tuscan..---- 

Uncle Sam’s.-. 

U nderwriters..-. 

♦Union--- 

Valley Building Co.--- 

Very "Best--—.— 

Virginia--- 

Wabash-.-.— 

Washington Irving.-. 

Washington Savings--— 

Webster Groves- 

West End--- 

West St. Louis.— 


4022 Manchester road— 


A. H. Kansteiner 


813V2 Chestnut st- 

1017 Chestnut st. 

720 Chestnut st- 

921 Chestnut st_ 

1023 Locust st- 

2819 St. Louis ave— 
6915 S. Broadway — 
1821 S. Jefferson'ave 

622 Park ave- 

816 Olive st—.. 

824 Chestnut st.- 

927 Chestnut st.- 

618 Chestnut st- 

106 V 2 Chestnut st— 

813 Chestnut st. 

3513 Walnut st- 

322 Chestnut st.. 


X. S. Wood_ 

E. S. Fish_ 

J. H. Tiernan — 

D. Sheppard_ 

O. Zakrzew.-ki — 
J. F. Bottger- 

F. W. Mott_ 

H. W. Mepham. 

H. J. Krebs_ 

W. B. Anderson 


B. M. Loewenstein . 

A. A. B. Woerheide 

B. W. Thornhill 

A. O. Rule.—. 

H. Kromrey- 

T. A. Rice- 


404 Market st 


F. Xohl 


211 N. 8th st 


D. J.Hayden 


114 N. 8th st 


J. H. Farish 


105 N. 8th st.- 

20<io E. Grand ave— 
2604 S. Jefferson ave 

316 N. 6th st. 

722 Chestnut st. 

405 N. 6th st- 

10 th and Carroll sts. 

1123 Chestnut st- 

720 N. 4th st—. 

814 Chestnut st.- 

816 Chestnut st- 

421 Olive st.- 

120 N. 3d st--- 

318 N. 8th st.- 

9 N. 8th st-.- 

17 X. 8th st—.. 

322 Chestnut st_ 

707 Chestnut st- 

616 Chestnut st. 

4101 Easton ave.. 


J. S. Gordon- 

E. W. AA’oods- 

W. J. Lewis- 

F. A. Banister —. 

J. G. McNair — 
W. Ennes —. 

H. Kotthoff- 

H. S. Tuttle_ 

J. C. Hall_ 

J. AY. Brennan—. 

J. F. AA’eston- 

AY. H. Forse- 

J. H. Holmes — 
O. T. C. C'olonius 
J. AY. Bergfeld... 

T. A. Rice- 

J. H. Trembely- 

I, . A. J. Lippelt- 
H. C. Barnard ... 


1 480,000.00 
I 600,000.00 

100 , 000.00 

600,000.00 

500,000.00 

600,000.00 

600,000.00 

600,000.00 

500,000.00 

600,900.00 

400,000.00 


240.00 

240.00 

100.00 

240.00 

200.00 

300.00 

240.00 

300.00 

200.00 

240.00 

200.00 


5 % 


S</r 

5 % 

6 % 

n 

0% 

4% 

6 % 

5% 

6 to 8% 


6 to Ity 
5V2to7% 


6 to 


600,000.00 

600,000.00 

500,(00.00 

500,000.00 

500,000.00 


240.00 

300.00 

200.00 

200.00 

100.00 



.50 


1,000,000.00 
( 350,000.00 
I 250,000.00 


200.00 

200.00 

200.00 


6 % 

6 % 

6 % 


( 660,000.00 300.00 
/ 600,000.00 300.00 


4 % 

4% 


600,000.00 


300,000.00 


240.00 


100.00 


1.00 


5 % 


8 % 


8 % 


600,000.00 
6' 0,000.00 
600,000.00 
480,000.00 
500,000.00 


240.00 

300.00 

240.00 

240.00 

200.00 


1.00 


5% 

4% 

5% 

5% 

6 % 


480,000.00 

300,000.00 

600,000.00 

600,000.00 


240.00 

240.00 

240.00 

240.00 


1.00 


5 to 8% 
5 % 
6 % 

5 <7r 


6 to 1% 

" 7 t 

5% 


500,000.00 


200.00 


6 % 


5 % 


— 59 — 






















































































































































































































Name of Association. 

Office Address 

Secretary. 

Capital 

Stock. 

Shares. 

Dues. 

Interest. 

Interest 

on 

Deposits. 

Western . _ -____ . .. 

311 Commercial Building_ 

C. H. Sawyer.... 

$500,000.00 

$100.00 


6% 

6% 

1 Western Mutual_ - 

813 Chestnut st __ _ 

R. F. Kilgen_ 

500 000 00 

100.00 

1.00 

6% 

8% 

Workingmen’s- - 

17 N. 8th st_ _ 

A. J. Naughton. __ 

600^000.00 

240.00 

1.00 

5% 

7% 


All associations not marked * or X are serial. 

* Those marked thus are permanent, 
t These associations charge an entrance fee. 
t These are terminating. 

All pay six per cent, interest on deposits unless stated otherwise. 

The Buckeye charges admission fee of 25 cents per share. 

The Beal Estate No. 1 charges entrance fee $1.00 per share. 

The Home Savings charges admission fee of $1.00 per share. Its monthly dues are 65 cents per share. 
The monthly dues in the Imperial, Parnell Savings and Real Estate, Nos. 2 and 3 are $2.00 per share. 
The monthly dues in the Missouri are $6.00 per share. 

The monthly dues in the Mound City are $2.00 per share. 

The monthly dues in the Mutual Benefit, Nos. 1 and 2 and the Peter Coopers are $1.08V3 per share. 

The monthly dues in the .Etna are $2.00 to $5.00 per share. 

The monthly dues in the Leader are 40 cents per share. 

The monthly dues in the Trust Fund are 50 cents per share. 

The monthly dues in the Western are 60 cents per share. 

The West End dues are 25 cents per share weekly. 


— 00 — 

































MISSOURI BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS OUTSIDE OF ST. LOUIS AND KANSAS CITY.* 


Name of Association. 

Office Location. 

Aurora___ - __ 

A urora 

Boonville__ _ __ 

Roonville_ 

Brookfield_ .. . _ _ 

Brookfield__ 

Cameron__ 

Cameron_ 

Jasper County_ _ 

Carthage _ __ 

Marion _. _ __ . ... 

Carthage .. 

Chillicothe_ -- __ 

Chillicothe . ___ 

Fulton B. & L. A_ _ _ 

Fulton__ 

Gallatin _ - _ _ 

Gallatin . ..... _ 

Marion County Mutual. .. _ 

Hannibal. __ ____ 

Missouri Guarantee Savings ____ 

Hannibal _ _ 

Mechanics. .. _ ...1____ 

Hannibal_ .. _ 

Workingmen’s Mutual __ _ 

Hannibal. . __ 

Mutual Saving Fund A_ . . _ 

Hermann _ 


Higginsville____ 

Home _ _ -- _ 

Higginsville_ 

Capital City_ _ 

Jefferson City__ 

Jefferson City__ ___ 

Jefferson City_ __ 

Home -__ __ - _ 

Joplin_ _ _ 

Ozark _ 

Lebanon____ ... 


Lexington__ _ 

Macon__ _ -- 

Macon.__ . 

New Era ____ .. .. 

Marshall_ . _ 

Mutual _ 

Marshall_ .. 

Maryville Homestead_ __ 

Maryville__ 

Mexico_ _ - -__ 

Mexico_ _ 

Moberly- _ _ 

Moberly___ 

Home _ _ _ -- __ 

Moberly__ .. 


Mt. Vernon.__ .. 

Neosho _ 

Neosho. . _ 


Palmvra _ _ 


Poplar Bluff____ 


Richmond_ _ 

Salisbury _ _ _ 

Salisbury____ 


Sedalia__ 


Sedalia___ 


Sedalia. _ _ 


Slater_ _ 


Springfield_ 


Springfield___ 

National..—... 

Springfield- 

St. Cnarles. __ 


St. Joseph _ ___ 


St. Joseph_ .. 


St. Joseph_ _ 


St. Joseph_ 


St. Joseph _ 

Provident-- 

St. Joseph--- 


Secretary. 


W. B. Cochran- 

R. Hadelich- 

Geo. W. Martin- 

S. P. Allen..- 

W. A. Williams- 

W. A Williams- 

Douglass Stewart- 

W. E. Jameson- 

Boyd Dudley. 

Adam Thin... 

Herbert Harris... 

L. W. Boswell.. 

Geo. D. Clayton_ 

Robert Baiimgaertner 

H. F.Campbell_ 

H. C. Schwartz- 

C. W. Wallendorf- 

C. W. Wallendorf- 

E. Webster-- 

H. T. Wright _ 

Chas. W. Loomis- 

E. L. English... 

J. H. Boyer- 

B. F. Shepherd_ 

R. L. McDougal- 

J. A. Glaudon.. 

V. M. Tedford_ 

W. P. Cave_ 

J. B. Good.... 

J. C. Gever.. 

Frank W. Smith. - 

J. T. Davison- 

Geo. Schweich- 

Gus. A. Hall.— 

C. B. Bodes..— 

J. E. Ritchey_ 

P. G. Stafford_ 

R. T. Brightwell.. 

M. A. Lapham- 

Geo. A. C. Woolley— 

R. P. Haldeman_ 

R. C. Haenssler_ 

Milton C. Powell_ 

J. H. Lancaster. 

Fred. A. H.Garlichs—. 

Chas. N. Robinson- 

W. L. Buechle..-. 

H. S. Smith 


Capital 

Stock. 

Shares. 

Dues. 

Interest 

on 

Deposits. 

■$ 200,000.00 

$ 200.00 

$1.00 


300,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


400,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


400,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


500,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

6% 

600,i'00.00 

200.00 

200.00 

1.00 

1.00 

6% 

300,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


200,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


400,000.00 

200.1 0 

1.00 


10,000,000.00 

1,000.00 

5.00 


500,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


360,000.00 

240.00 

1.00 


130,000.00 

200.00 

2.(0 


200,000X0 

200.00 

1.00 

6% 

200,000.00 

200.00 

l.oo 

6 to 10 % 

300,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

400,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


4011,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


160,000.00 

200/0 

1.00 

6% 

350,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

250,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


200,000.0'' 

200.00 

1.00 

6% 

200,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

6% 

200,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

9% 

700,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


1,2' 0,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

8 if any 

500,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

100,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


300,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


360,000 00 

240.00 

1.00 


200,000.00 

400,000.00 

320,000.00 

200.00 

200.00 

1.00 


200.00 

1.00 


4,000,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

8 % 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 


6 to 8 % 

250,000.00 


0.60 

6 to 8% 

200,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 

6% 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.75 


1,000,000.00 

200.00 

Various. 

6 to 1% 

5,000,000.00 

500.00 

3.00 

5 to 8% 

600,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


600,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


500,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 


500,000.00 

200.00 

l.oo 


1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.60*$I. 


2,000.000.00 

200.00 

l.i'0 


5"0,000.00 

200.00 

1.00 



* This List embraces most of the prominent Associations in the State, excepting a few from which the data could not be obtained in time 


for the publisher. 


— 61 — 













































































































































































































PROMINENT BUILDING ASSOCIATIONS IN 


Name of Association. 


Office Location. 


Alton Germania- 

Bluff City Workingmen’s- 

Piasa Building and Loan- 

Anna Building and Loan- 

Beardstown Building and Loan 

Mutual Loan and Savings- 

Citizen’s Loan and Savings- 

First Mutual--- 

Central..—-- 

Citizens... 

Carbondale—.... 

Carlinville-- 

Greene County—.-.— 

Centralia.-.-.. 

Home--- 

Charleston Homestead. 

Coles County--- 

Collinsville.-... 

Danville—-.—.-.- 

Danville Benefit—.—.- 

Germania—.... 

Home —... 

Vermilion County.. 

People’s Savings-- 

Savings Fund—-- 

St. Clair... 

St. Patrick’s Mutual__ 

Fidelity Savings-- 

Mechanics’ Homestead- 

Mutual Loan-- 

Hillsboro—. 

Havana_ 

Jacksonville Loan__ 

Securi'y Savings- 

Oil City_ 

Macomb__ 

Mattoon___ 

Moline_ 

Monmouth___ 

Olney... 

Pana..—__ 

German American Savings_ 

Pekin Loan and Homestead_ 

Gem City..-.. 

People’s Savings___ 

Quincy_ 

Kock island Mutual—__ 

Sparta__—.- 

German American Savings_ 

Springfield City.-. 


Alton- 

Alton- 

Alton —. 

Anna- 

Beardstown — 
Beardstown ~ 

Belleville- 

Belleville- 

Cairo- 

Cairo_ 

Carbondale - 
Carlinville — 

Carrollton- 

Centralia- 

Centralia. 

Charleston_ 

Charleston— 
Collinsville — 

Danville.. 

Danville_ 

Danville_ 

Danville_ 

Danville. 

Decatur.. 

Decatur- 

East St. Louis 
East St. Louis 

Galesburg- 

Galesburg — 

Galesburg- 

Hillsboro_ 

Havana_ 

Jacksonville.. 

Jacksonville- 

Litchfield_ 

Macomb.. 

Mattoon_ 

Moline- 

Monmouth— 

Olney - 

Pana.-.. 

Pekin- 

Pekin- 

Quincy- 

Quincy.— 

Quincy- 

Rock Island—. 

Sparta - 

Springfield_ 

Springfield- 


— 62 — 


NTRAL AND SOUTHERN ILLINOIS * 


Secretary. 

Capital 

Stock. 

Shares. 

Dues. 

R. Grossrau_ - -- 

$1,000,000.00 

$ 100.00 

$0.50 

J. T. McGinnis- 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

J. T McGinnis.. 

5, "00,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

D. W. Goodman- 

1,000,000.00 

ioo.oo 

0.50 

R. H. Garm. _ _ 

T. K. Condit__ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

H. E. Schrader-- 

500,000.00 

Various. 

0.50 

A. M. Wolleson... 

1,000,000.00 

ioo.oo 

0.50 

Matt C Metzger- 

1,000,000.00 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.53 

.1. C. Crowley- — — 

ioo.oo 

0.50 

C. W. Williams- — 

500,000.00 

10 1.1 0 

0.50 

W. O. Steinmeyer- 

F. M. Roberts_— — 

500,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

R. J. Moore__ 

5,000,000.00 

ioo.oo 

0.50 

O. V. Parkinson- — 

2,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.55 

F. K. Dunn- - 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.65 

C. S. Wiley- — 

1,000,000.00 

loe.oo 

0.65 

N. W. Chandler- 

500,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

Jas. H. Phillips- 

10,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.60 

M. J. Wolford_ 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.54 

c. C. Winter- 

10,000,000.00 

ioo.oo 

0.60 

Jas. H. Phillips — —.. 

5,0011,000.00 

100.' 0 

l.oo 

B. E. Bandy.-.— 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.15 Weekly 

Albert Barnes — ___ 

5,000,000.00 

10 '.00 

0.50 & 0.70 

B. K. Durlee_ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

D. S. Sage - -- - __ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

M. B. Sheridan_ 

500,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

A. Nelson- —_— 

3,000,«00.00 

mo.oo 

0.50 

I.. W. Sanborn_ ..._ 

2,000,000.00 

100.00 

0 50 

F. S. Bartlett_ _ 

1,01 0,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

.1. E Colvin_ 

2,000,000.00 

500,000.00 

100.00 


1. N. Mitchell_ 

100.00 

0.50 

R. A. Gates--- 

2,000,000.00 

100.00 

0 . 121/2 Weekly 

R. A. Gates__ 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.30 

H. H. Hood_ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

B. F. McLean.. - .. 

500,000 00 

100.00 

0 50 

.1. W. Withington_ _ 

282,623.00 

100.00 

0.65 

.1. W. Warr_ 

600,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

T. G. Peacock- 

66,024.00 paid in 

100.1 0 

0.50 

C.S. Mace_ 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

L. S. Ham_ _ 

500,000 00 

100.00 

0.50 

E. 1 . Abrahams—.— .. 

800,(00.00 

10''.00 

0.50 

C. A. Kuhl_ _ 

5,000,000.00 

mo.oo 

0.50 

H. B. Dines_ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

1.00 

B. G. Vasen. _ 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

B. G. Vasen._ 

5,000,000.00 

ioo.oo 

0.50 

E. H. Guyer. _ _ 

10.000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 

T. B. Ste’phenson_ 

1,000,000.00 

100.00 

0 50 

C. F. Herman_ 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.50 & 1.00 

Geo. J. Barrett- 

10,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.55 















































































































































































Name of Association. 


Office Location. 


Springfield Homestead — 

Workingmen’s Savings_ 

Workman’s_ 

Staunton Loan.. 

Christian County Savings 

Tuscola Benefit_ 

Citizen’s Mutual 


Springfield. 
Springfield. 
Springfield. 
Staunton .. 
Taylorville 
Tuscola — 
Vandalia 


Secretary. 

Capital 

Stock. 

Shares. 

Dues. 

C. P. Kane __ 




J. Bitter_ 

$5,000,000.00 

500,000.00 

500,000.00 

$100.00 

100.00 

$0.25 weekly 
0.55 & l.io 

•T. W. Freund. 

Tom Blair. _ _ 

100.00 

0.50 

H. F. Davidson_ _ 

A. W. Wallace__ 

2,000,000.00 

5,000,000.00 

100.00 

0.12V2 Weekly 
0.65 

F. I. Henry 

100.00 


* The limits of this book permit the listing of only the more prominent State Associations which have replied promptly to inquiries for data. 



— 63 — 









































CHAPTER XI. 


CONCLUSION. 

N CONCLUSION, a few practical hints remain as to matters not embraced in the preceding 
chapters. In no direction has the path of invention and improvement been more rapid or 
the progress more wonderful than in the materials and processes of house building. The old is 
constantly being superseded by the new, and new wants are daily developed for which new 
provision is demanded. An important preliminary to amateur house planning, therefore, should 
be to procure the catalogues, circulars, etc., which manufacturers and dealers send free on 
application, and by a careful perusal to educate one’s self to the latest, best and cheapest of the 
various materials and processes placed at the disposal of house builders. 

For example, paper is now used very extensively in building to exclude moisture and 
vermin, to render floors and partitions sound proof, for roofing purposes, and in other ways which can 
most readily be learned from the circulars and catalogues of dealers in building papers. A single layer 
of good building paper, costing only thirty cents for one hundred square feet, on the outside walls of a 
frame house, will add greatly to its warmth and comfort, and will save in fuel enough in one year to 
more than repay its entire cost. 

For flat roofs, with a fall not exceeding one-half inch to the foot, nothing better nor cheaper has 
ever been invented than the gravel composition roof, which is found on all the most important business 
blocks, hotels, stores, warehouses, etc., in St. Louis. It is inexpensive in first cost, it is very durable, 
and requires no attention after being laid except to be let alone. Responsible makers guarantee these 
roofs five years. They are not available on steep roofs, however, where shingles, slate, tin, tiles, etc., 
are used. 

For walls, brick is the most durable material known, and, in the end, it is the cheapest. Until 
recently, an objection to the use of brick has been the impossibility of obtaining ornamental effects 
without a large increase of expense. This is now obviated by the artistic, beautiful and cheap moulded 

- 64 - 





bricks which are shown in the illustrated catalogues of leading makers, and which place the most refined 
ornament within the reach of any purse. Good brick is indestructible by fire or the elements, and it 
needs no paint to preserve it. There is a wide variety of colors in modern bricks, as buff, pink, brown, 
etc., and colored mortars are made to correspond, producing very artistic effects. Rock-faced bricks are 
made, to imitate stone work ; enameled bricks are used instead of plastering in kitchens, laundries, 
stables, etc., and a new form of brick, 2x4x12, called Roman brick, is very popular. 

For sidewalks in front of a city house, and for entrance paths, etc., also for laundry and stable 
floors, nothing has ever been found so durable, clean, beautiful and comfortable as granitoid. This is a 
layer of cinders, or finely broken stone or gravel, with a top dressing of crushed granite in Portland 
cement. When properly constructed, it is as durable as the natural stone itself. The honor of inventing 
this valuable material is claimed by Mr. Preston M. Bruner, of St. Louis. 

Suburban houses are generally of frame covered with siding or shingles, which are often cut to 
ornamental shapes and are laid in a variety of patterns. It is customary to color the shingles on roofs 
and walls with creosote stains. These preserve the material and produce charming color effects. The 
cost of these stains is trifling, and they are invaluable in preventing decay and enhancing the beauty 
of the house. 

For interior finish, the choice is between paints of various tints, with and without graining, and 
for finishing in the natural color. For the latter, special varnishes or “oil finishes” are made. These, 
when properly selected and applied, produce a beauty and delicacy which can be obtained in no other 
way. American people have yet to learn the beauty of their native woods, as brought out by a good 
varnish or oil finish. But so much disappointment has resulted from the use of inferior and adulterated 
varnishes, that prudent owners, realizing the importance and economy of a perfectly reliable varnish, 
sometimes procure their own varnish from makers of known standing, and have it put on by a skillful 
workman. This involves very little expense, the actual quantity used on one job being comparatively 
small. The entire cost of the finest and most durable varnish, for a medium house, will hardly exceed 
eighteen or twenty dollars, and the difference in cost between this and the cheap stuff so often used is 
still less 


-65 


The hardware of a house is likewise an item in which modern improvement has placed an excellent 
article at such a low price that there is no economy in using flimsy goods. It has already been advised 
that the owner shall select and furnish his own locks, bolts, sash fasteners, lifts, etc., and have them put 
on by the contractor. Neat hardware helps the appearance of a house very materially. 

Where electric light is available, a new house should be wired for it : in other localities it is 
customary to pipe for gas. The economy of coal oil is seriously reduced from the inferior quality of 
glass used in lamp chimneys, and the labor of filling and cleaning lamps, etc. For convenience, clean¬ 
liness and safety, the superiority of electricity or gas is very great. 

In plumbing, a complete revolution has been effected within the past ten years. Iron or porcelain 
bath tubs, sitz tubs, etc , porcelain water closets with special porcelain supply tanks, and marble and 
porcelain lavatories, have superseded the old style of fixtures. Marble floors and marble or tile walls 
are common in bath rooms, and all work of every kind is exposed, so as to leave no corner nor crack 
where dirt, vermin and disease may harbor. A modern bath room, as now furnished, is in a sanitary 
and artistic respect, one of the most noteworthy triumphs of the end of the Nineteenth Century. These 
improvements add somewhat to the first cost of a modern house, but the benefits to health and life are 
beyond all comparison. The house is better and cleaner, and its inmates live longer to enjoy it. 

Wooden mantels have largely supplanted the marble, slate and iron mantels, which were once so 
common. This is not because they are better for practical purposes in connection with a grate 
fire, bnt because the grate fire has become chiefly an ornamental appendage in most houses, and 
because a tasteful wooden mantel “furnishes” a new house so effectively. The making of wooden 
mantels and other interior decorations has now become a special business of itself. Consequently a 
great variety of artistic and elegant mantels are produced and kept in stock at surprisingly low prices. 
Old-fashioned people, who enjoy grate fires for heating purposes as in the good old times, will prefer 
marble, slate or iron mantels, as more serviceable than wood ; while, in consequence of the fashionable 
preference for wood, the other mantels are now offered at prices lower than ever before. They are 
to be had of marble dealers. 

A very noteworthy feature of recent progress has been the increased use of marble in building. 

— 66 — 


The author claims to have been the first to introduce in St. Louis in houses of moderate cost a recessed 
front entrance, open to the weather, wainscotted at the sides with marble, and with all the steps and 
risers of marble. This work was inexpensive, durable, easy to clean, and exceedingly bright looking 
and attractive to every one. These marble vestibules and steps did more than any other single feature 
to advertise these houses, and to fill them with a superior class of tenants. Hence, they proved to be 
an excellent investment for their owner. 

Great progress has been made of late years in the qualities, varieties and prices of “art glass,” as 
it is now called. This term embraces a wide range of stained, cathedral, mnranese, ondoyant, schoppen, 
chipped, crackled, beveled, mitred, and other styles of clear and colored glass ; also, the circular “rondels” 
and cut and stamped “jewels,” which add to the brilliancy of the glass. A peculiar charm about art 
glass is that its beauty never fades nor grows dim. Its color is in the light that shines through it, and 
this light is as clear and bright to-day as when it first illuminated the Garden of Eden. 

Wall and ceiling decoration has also made great advance, both in tinted and painted effects, and in 
the very artistic wall papers, which are fashionable and cheap. Painted decoration is durable and 
washable, and is exclusive; no one else can claim the same design. Papers are elegant and rich in effect, 
and of such variety as to afford a wide field for the display of an owner’s taste. A white wall looks 
cold and bare until it is papered or tinted. 

Wood carpeting, or parquetry, partakes of the natures of both ornament and furnishing. An 
excellent plan is to have a centre floor of soft pine covered with a good rug, and a border, eighteen 
inches more or less in width, all around of wood carpet. An immense variety of patterns is manufac¬ 
tured and shown in the catalogues of dealers. 

For heating a house, the modern hot water apparatus is the best where it can be afforded. Next 
in efficiency, cost and economy of fuel, comes steam ; then the hot-air furnace ; then the individual 
stove. Each system has its advocates, who are disposed to recognize no merit in any other ; but in the 
hands of experienced and responsible parties, excellent results may be confidently expected with any 
of them. It is unwise to rely upon inexperienced and irresponsible parties under any circumstances 
whatever. 


— 67 — 


The Investigation of Titles to Real Estate. 


B EFORE purchasing a lot for a home or for investment, be sure to have the title examined by 
the most responsible and reliable title examiner, and thus save yourself endless annoyance 
. and loss. 

f In 1890 the St. Louis Trust Company, with a capital and surplus of $3,000,000, 

established its Title Department at 615 Chestnut Street, with H. V. Sherwood, Manager. 
This Department contains a complete record of every instrument of writing from our earliest history 
in America in anywise affecting lands in St. Louis City and County, with plats of every lot, tract or 
subdivision of land therein, together with a record of every judgment rendered in our courts affecting 
such titles, and a complete index of all the proceedings had in the settlement of any estate. In addi¬ 
tion to all this, the Title Department of the St. Louis Trust Company has a vast amount of valuable 
information, collected within the last fifty years, which can be obtained from no other source. This 
Department is now thoroughly under control, and its system is so complete and perfect that work can 
be done within from twelve to twenty-four hours, and even in less time when occasion demands it, 
instead of having to wait a week or longer, as is the rule with other concerns. With these facilities, 
and with the best legal advice obtainable, there is no reason why this Department should not receive 
the generous support it deserves. This Company has introduced a new feature in this department of its 
business, guaranteeing titles absolutely. This Guaranty , supported as it is by the great wealth of the 
Company, is in itself an instrument of title equal in value to the property itself. Heretofore nothing 
could be obtained in St. Louis but an Abstract or a Certificate. This departure will be warmly wel¬ 
comed here and must prove very successful and serviceable. A Guaranty stands upon the same footing 
as a Warranty. 


— 68 — 



I X I NO IIISCF O.llNKS. 


CHARLES K. ILLSLE Y, A.M.C.E., Architect, St. I.ouls. 

BAIRD VILLA, KIRKSVILLE, MO.— Wm. T. Baird, Eso., 

Cost $10,200.00. Erected without extras or delays. 







































■nTTpTT|rrnjTT7T 


or DRAWING INSTRUMENTS, ARCHITECTS DR 
AND CIVIL ENGINEERS SUPPLIES,ETC. 

J ARGEST STOCK (QUOTATIONS 

Lowest prices cheerfully given 


THIO SET COMPLETE |>.65 415 No BROADWAY 


TEND TOR. CATALOGUE: 


- 70 — 











































































W. MANUFACTURER ,1 REFERENCES 


OF 


EQUITABLE BLD’q 
BOATMANS BANK 


ALL KINDSoFGASillj^- pquRTH NAT. BANK 

RIALTO. BLD’C, 
COLUMBIA BLD’q 

PI YTI ]DPS ADOLPH BUSCH, re-s. 

i IA1 UKLJ. . LB.TEBBETTS. J. 

DR.T.dREILLY. do 


ELECTRIC. . nm , 
AND COMBINATION^iWl 




(S )02 0 LIVE STCtSHffiSa 

ST I ni IIS NEW HIQH SCHOOL. 

A A Sjfl?r NEW UNION DEPOT 


NEW UNION DEPOT 

AND MAN/ OTHER 


BUY YOUR FIXTURES IT AT FACTORY 


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= THE 

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• « 


HEadQO^for PARIQR, DIMING 6 BEDROOM FURNISH I MGS 
























































































































































CUMBERLAND PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, ST. LOUIS. 

Rev. B. P. Fueeerton, Pastor. 

Capacity of Auditorium, 600 seats on ground floor. Cost $48,000.00. 

Erected within original estimate of cost. 

Stone Work by John Reitz & Co., 3210 Chouteau Ave., St. Louis. 



















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tTAMTCLS-TILCS 
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I -TENNESSEE-AND VERMONT • IflA 

MARBLE FINISHERS AND CONTRACTORS 


y 


MARBLE WAINSCOT AND ELOORS1 DURABLE 


ENCAUSTIC TILE 


(ARTISTIC 
INEXPENSIVE 


U , 


GEORGIA MARELE 0TEP5 APE A EJOY TOPEVEP^ EASY 
^0 CLEAN • • CAVE TIME AND LAbOR “CHEAPEST IN TOIL END 


i I223’S-SEC0ND’ST- 


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— 75 










































































































































CHARLES E. ILLSLEY, A.M.C.E., ARCHITECT, ST. LOl’IS. 


DESIGN A. 

See floor plans on page 77. 
— 76 — 

























































































































































FLOOR PLANS FOR DESIGN A. 
See page 76. 


— 77 









































































— 7 » — 



















































































































































































CABOT’S CREOSOTE 
SHINGLE STAINS 



Lonr?g »- Phipps ArcRls Boston 


“ Fifty per cent. Cheaper than paint.” 

T HE great popularity which our stains have 
attained in the thirteen years of their ex¬ 
istence, is due to their low cost, their preserva¬ 
tive and permanent qualities, and the artistic 
effect they give. People buy them because they 
realize that they can get a better result by their 
use, and at the same time save one-half in color¬ 
ing their houses. They are strictly guaranteed, 
and no chances are taken in using them. 


CABOT’S___. 

SHEATHING “QUILT.” 



Keeps the heat in —the Cold out. 


\ 

O UILT” is a new, scientific method of 
sheathing houses, and it costs less than 
one cent a square foot, while actual test shows 
that its non-conducting power is equal to six 
thicknesses of rosin-sized paper. One layer of 
Quilt will keep a house warmer than back 
plaster, while the cost and trouble of back 
plastering are saved. Quilt is uninflammable, 
repellent to insects and vermin, very clean to 
handle, and easy to apply. 


Samples ok these Materials, with Full Information, on Application. 

WHITELAW BROS., Agents, St. Louis, Mo. 

409 & 411 North Second Street. 


SAMUEL CABOT, Sole Mfr., Boston, Mass. 









(JjARTER OAKS arc no higher priced 

THAN OTHER El ROT CLAYS STOVES (» called) 
YET WORTH TWICE THE MONEY 

OEND TOR CATALOGUE: 


EAT/\E>L I 5 HCD 16 A -9 


(fxnTjint' Jlamrfarturinu, (ffu 

iii!2-i8 uJflain St. St.i^ouis, Itlo. 


GRAND CHARTER OAK RANGE 


HOT &LW^ 5 T HEATER. 


oorr 


COAL 


— So —■ 







































EX I - NO IIISCI OiHNKS. 


— 81 — 


Original Design. Cost $27,000.00. 




















































































































LARGEST L 

MOST COMPLETE: 

GAO FIXTURE 
STOCK IN THE 
COUTH - VEST 

V/E ARE IN 

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NONE BUT THE 
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WORKMEN 

ESTIMATES ON 

GAS A ELECTRIC, X 
COMblNATION PIXTURES 
AND ALL ELECTRICAL. & 
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O O O O o © 


rRANC15 • L 
HANDEL 
MRY ° L* ■ • 
HAYDEL 


O O o o o o 


RM • FORMERLY 
uOHN • BYRNE 
JR. A CO 


O o O o o o 



WC BUY & SELL 
REAL • ESTATE 
WC-LOAN-MONEY 
ON • REAL CSTA 


<*■ 



CTI0N5 
OUR SPECIALTY 




ESTABLISHED IN 1640 WHEN 51 LOUIS HAD 15,000 POPULATION • • • 
IN 1694, OUR 55TH. YEAH, 5T LOUIS HAS 596,000 AND GROWING. 
VE HAVE GROWN WITH THE CITY AND KNOW EVERY EOOT OE IT 
THIS ADVANTAGE WILL APPEAL TO BUYERS ° • • • • « • • • • • • « - •« 













































































































E.C STERLING. 

PRE5T. 
J H CLARK, 

VICE- 
H VZ CLiOT, 

SEC’Y X- TR 

LOUIS CHAUVD 
asst td 

T PPLUMRIDGE, 
ASS’T 
V.N. GRAVES, 

GEN’L SUP'T 


CHICAGO • ILLS 
COLLINSVILLE-” 
EIHDLAY • 0 • 

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NinriEAPOLIS • 
OMAHA • HEB- 
PHILADELPHIA • 
ROCHESTER-NY 
TOLEDO • 0- 

WEST 5UPERI0R- 
WASHIHGTOH- D-C 










































































E 


Ot 



* A/1i"CE“ 



i 


EELLSW of AMERICAN IN5TITVTE or ARCHITECTS' 
A550CIATE EDITOR THE IHLAND ARCHITECT' 
AVTHOR of DIRECT METHODS HI PERSPECTIVE' 


t®F 




NO RISK-N 



RCHITECT 

5T.LDUI5 
MO. 


. z<k-M^r T 

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— 85 — 





























































































































































- 86 













































































































































































































































































° IRON ° 

• COLUMNS » 


° IRON ° 

• BEAMS • 

ETC, ETC, ETC 












s? - 






























































































































































CHARLES E. ILLSLEY, A.M.C.E., ARCHITECT, ST. LOUS. 


DESIGN B. 

See floor plans on page 89. 
— 88 — 



































































































































































T~i r st TIoor ? kn 


FLOOR PLANS FOR DESIGN B. 
See page 88. 

— 89 — 

































































































9 o - 










MUELLER BROS. FURNITURE AND CARPET CO. 




BED • HEIGHT, 7ET. 10 IN. -5LAT5,5PT 
VASHSTANB • HEIGHT, 7ET 6IN. 


TERMS STRICTLY CASH 

THEREFORE THE LOWEST 


HEIGHT, 7ET. SIN. 
TRENCH BEVEL MIRROR 43*42 IN. 


OFFICE AND SALESROOM 
910 - 912 & 914 S. FOURTH ST. 


FACTORIES 

9JD9-11-13-15,5.FOURTH ST. 
906 -10 -12 -14, S. BROADWAY 


MANUFACTURERS OF 


BUYING DIRECT IFIROM THE MAN- 
-UFACTURER YOU CAN SAVE- 
THi DEALER’S EXTRAVAGANT- 

• PROFITS 

BESIDE OUR FURNITURE VE CARRY 


••••-BRANCH-412-414-416-E.BROADWAY, CAST ST. LOUIS, ILL 


- 9' - 























































































































































AT 

Chicago-Exposition 


The wood exhibit in forestry build- 

-INC WAS EINISHCD WITH MURPHY VARN¬ 
ISHES --YOU CAN EINI5H YOUR HOUSEWH 
THE SAME AT NO MORE EXPENSE THAN OTHER 
VARNISHES • • CALL FOR THEM -TELL 
YOUR PAINTER YOU WILL HAVE NO OTHER • 



CHICAGO 

CLEVELAND' 





!WARR‘ 


— 92 























































- 93 — 


KX UXO DISCE OJINE3. CHARLES E. ILLS LEY. A.M.l'.E., Architect, St. Louis. 

ORIGINAL DESIGN FOR PRESBYTERIAN CHURCH, MEMPHIS, TENN. 

NOT ERECTED. 

For particulars address the Architect. 



















c=b 




11 = 









x 

L 







MODEL BATH ROOM 











SYPHONIA 
‘WATER 
• -CLOSETS 

EARTMCNWARE 
‘TANK 

bATti TUbS 
SITZ EATh 
^ LAVATORIES 


<f=p 



TOWEL 
‘ RACKS 
MIRRORS 
LAUNDRY 
° TUbS 
KITCHEN 
' A PANTRY 
* ‘ SINKS 


n 


6TH d ST.CHARLES o.o. 

Yti3 t:^ ) z zji=zj i a -a— t — m a— o - n— t=t 


o 


.LOUIS, MO. 



— 94 — 


























































































































































































































































































































































HOME IS NOT HOME 

Till its walls and 
ceilings are dec- 
-orated with our 
cosey and taste¬ 
ful wallpapers. 

IMMENSE STOCK 

Infinite variety. 
Exclusive de¬ 
signs and colors. 

LOWEST PRICES • 

SPECIAL ATTENTIOM 
TO COUNTRY ORDERS 

PARQUETRY ELGDRING 
A SPECIALTY 



~1 | sMmtC | —— r 

, ■ i UMMHMI 111 1 U 

STYLE EMPIRE 


SOLE AGEITTS 

For the imported 

ZUBER 

PAPERS 

The most artistic 
and original in 
the world 
Standard materials 

FOR 

INTERIOR DECORATION 

SAMPLE DEPARTMENT 
TOR THE BENEFIT OP 
COUNTRY TRADE 

CORRESPONDENCE 

SOLICITED 

VIRE SCREENS 
VCATHCR STRIPS 


Newcomb Bros, \%kll R\per go. 


7TH& LOCUST STS. 
















































































































































































y' 


W.f>ICKEL,FR£SO'. 



v/. i'iowl •)!yiTE.- hues’ ' r.' 




ALL KINDS OF 
INTERIOR 
MARBLE 
WORK 



FURNITURE 
RADIATOR ft 
PLUMBER 
TOPS. 






(Ml 


9 


WOOD♦BRONZE 
[TARBLEIZED* 
IRON ft SLATE - 
MANTELS* 
BRASS* GOODS* 
OPEN-FIRE* 
PLACES*GRATES 
TILING & SLATE' 
WORK * 


SEND FOR l ' 
* EST IMATES. * 


rb m 


5-gi 


T 


IT. 


— 96 

















































































































































































































A MODERN BATH ROOM FURNISHED BY 


FINE 

PLUMBING 

PORCELAIN DATH- 
TUDO • LAUNDRY 
TUEO -.SANITARY 
CATER. CLOOETO 
AARDLE LAVATO- 
-RIED • TOOT TUDO 
CHOWCR DATED 
ETC ETC 


FINNEY AVE. TELE 

ST. LOUIS, MO. 


STEAM £» rJ OT 
V/ATEK EJEATJNG 


CALL OP LEND foR 
CATALOGUE 


— 97 - 















































































































* 



CHARLES E. ILLSLEY, A.M.C.E., ARCHITECT, ST. LOUIS. 

DESIGN C.—See floor plans on page 99. 
— 98 — 






































































































FIRST FLOOR FLAN FOR DESIGN C. 
See page 98. 

— 99 — 



































































FURNISHED 
THE FOLLOWING 

orncc &UILDINGS 

SECURITY RIALTO 

COLUMBIA UNION TRUST 

WAINWR1GMT GL9EE DEMOCRAT 

Residences-^ 

SAN’L. CUPPLES 
n CLAY PIERCE 
W.A C AILLAN 
COLMCYSENISURG 


JNO. KAUEAAN 
JNO. T DAVIS 
R.C KERENS 
E.C. STERLING 


&C -XiC.-&C.-3bc.-^c.-&C.-2fciC.- Z*C- 


CALL 

OR 

SEND 

FOR 


THE MOST COMPLETE LINE Or 

LOW PRICED buiLDERV Hardware and 

TOOLS POR WOOD -STONE & METAL WORKER5 




TOO — 


































































CRVG05A/AMDERV00RT 



ARMEY 



Igcusr 


lOI 


























































































































KX INO DISCK 0JINKS. 


CHARLES E. ILI.SLEY, A.M.C.E., Architect, St. Louis. 

MISSOURI VALLEY COLLEGE, MARSHALL, MO. 

Rev. Wm. H. Black, D.D., President. 

Cost $46,000.00. Erected within original estimate without extras or delays. 


102 — 









/o/yx 5 ^ 

HARDWARE “COMPLETE! PQR • WALL* HOUSES' 


^ET-rl’i" 

:5et-iI'2- 


our-rooa nouoc • hardware- coaplctd por-to 

]VC “ ! “ « u « 116 

U t£ U U 

cc u a a 


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5ET#3”5fX 

Set-ixH’-Dght “ 

AL50*CLCGAAT'bRA5S’BGQAIZDi>ILVCR j AllCKCL ’AAID-RU3T- 
PROOr HARDWARE- 

^ENOPOR-ILLUSTRATIOAIS & PRICE5- 




& 



V A - *Ww < 

fas • 


rOUR.T/1 -AAJD-^^^' 
WA5MIAJGTOAIAV/ 



8 

































































































































































































































































53 


fsk 


-T 


(Q M/^FEIRSAL 2^3 PLY PREPARED R.OOEING ,TARRED rELTS, ETC\| 
UBLDIWG PAPER SHEATHINGS, DEADENING EELT5 , PLASTER. BOARDS,ETC. 

SHEATHINGS, STEAM PACKINGS, COVERINGS EOR STEAM PIPE!). 


1BEST0 
PAINTS % PR 

P.XB.P 


ASfSESTONErCREOSOTINC. 
INSULATING PAPERS, INSULATING COMPOUNDS 


MOTH PIR00F PRODUCT! 
MILL B 




p. 

rA 

ri 


LJj 


=S*4IY^ 




— 104 


























































































































































($> o 
cy v 

/\a 




pMERSET ELVB, pOSTON. ' 

\Wrbilt ^Mansion, Newport, f}. 

^VQVJESNE (Wb. fm 3BVRQ pA. 
^VPPLES j^ANSiON, yjoVIS j\o. 

Sec. J$Cc. & c fXECVTED [V /\r J)wyer!t ® 


©MIST8C W*® nH^SS 


If 




I I^ANCB |eC1L 0WYER,/(aNAQINQ 


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DESIGN D.—See floor plans on page 107. 


1 ob 
























































































































































































FLOOR PLANS FOR DESIGN D. 
See page 106. 

— voj — 




































































































































































' 1 L 


ir: 



THIS -POOPING IS ON PLANTERS) 
L HOTEL ,THE LINDELL • SOUTH - 
-ERN , SECURITY OUNCE BLDGj 
THE RIALTO, UNION TRUST A 



IT IS THE CHEAPEST AND BEST 
POOP MADE • REQUIRES NO 
PAINTING NOR REPAIRS AND 
■IS DULLY GUARANTEED 1 


mim 


ST. LOUIS, no. 


— 108 — 




















































































































ttff/ 


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Original drawing adopted before the building was contracted for. 

A comparison of this view with that on page 73 , taken from the edifice after completion, 
will show how accurately the work was executed. 
































DESIGN E.—See floor plans on page iii. 


no — 














































































































































































first and second floor plans for design e. 

See page no. 


111 






















































































































































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